The North Sister is a 10,090 foot volcano in Three Sisters Wilderness. Being the oldest of the Three Sisters the last eruption off its slopes was around 46,000 years ago. While the South sister is an active volcano both the North and the Middle are not. The mountain can be accessed from the west via the Obsidian Trailhead and the East via the Pole Creek Trail.
There is a long Native American history of the area as it gave access to Obsidian for arrowheads. The first Westerner to see the Three Sisters was the explorer Peter Skene Ogden from the Hudson Bay Company in 1825. The first recorded ascent of North Sister was made in 1857 by six people which was published in the Overland Monthly in 1870. While most people know it as the North Sister locals have refereed to it as “Faith” for over 100 years. With the Early Morning Couloir looking so aesthetic it was time to go after it on my 3rd trip of the season to Oregon.
After snowboarding Mount Mcloughlin with Jon he dropped me off near Santiam Pass. Being early in the day I set my tent up at the Detroit lake campground and took a quick nap. The plan was to meet up with Ari and Buell at the campground later in the day. After both of them arrived we decided to head towards the North Sister in 3 Sisters Wilderness. We drove up to the Pole Creek Trailhead before setting up camp for the night. Knowing the area was steep we set our alarms to 4 a.m. so we could make the most out of the day. Knowing we would be climbing under rocks and on steep terrain we wanted to ascend in firm snow.
Climbing the North Sister via Pole Creek Trailhead
We woke up to the alarm going off as we grabbed our headlamps. It was still going to be dark as we slowly put our gear in our packs and started moving. After a few hours of stumbling on the trails we finally arrived at the base of the North Sister. By now it was in the Early Morning sun and we had a clear view of the Villard Glacier. Looking to the west we could tell the Early Morning Couloir was steep. It would be a straight foreword climb up the northeast ride before dropping off the summit.
After around two hours of bushwhacking we found ourselves on the lower slopes of the Villard Glacier. While in the sun the snow was still firm as we put on our crampons and took out our ice axes. Knowing that the upper slopes had loose rocks we put on helmets for the climb.
Climbing up the Villard Glacier Headwall
As we climbed up the steep face we were all happy to have ice axes and crampons. By now we were less then 1,000 feet from the summit and had a clear view of our approach in the distance. It had been a long morning but by now it was still around 8 a.m. Though the face had been in the sun for a few hours it was still quite firm as we kicked in the last steps to the ridge.
Soon enough we were back off the snow and standing on some flat scree. The route so far had been long but smooth and it was the perfect spot for a break. From our vantage point we had a clear view to the north. In the distance we could see Mount Washington, Three Fingered Jack and Mount Jefferson.
The rock was rotten as we made our way towards the top of the North Sister. You couldn’t trust the rocks we grabbed them only to fall apart in our hand. By now we were minutes away from our transition point and nervous about the Early Morning Couloir. With some carefully placed steps and being cautious of others below us we finally made our way to the entrance of the Early Morning Couloir.
Traversing over to Check out the Early Morning Couloir on the North Sister
Soon enough we were on the snow again and able to find a flat spot to strap our boards on. To reach the couloir we had a 50 degree exposed traverse that separated the Villard Glacier face. After a bit of chatting Ari decided to head back down the way we came up while Buell and I decided to check out the couloir. Both of us had our ice axes in hand as we made the airy traverse. Fortunately our boards edges stuck into the snow as we made our way over to the entrance.
Once on the edge of the Early Morning Couloir we had a descent look down. The chute itself was steep and committing with a runnel running down the gut. From what we could tell from below it was around 2000 vertical feet. Feeling the snow on the traverse it was as soft as we had hoped for as we chatted about whether we should drop in or turn back.
After a bit of chatting I decided to go in and check it out. By now we were only a few feet below the summit of the North Sister nervously preparing to link turns down the face. From what I could tell there was a small cliff in the middle of the slope we would have to go around. I had traversed into the line via the toe side edge but still nervous about committing to the heel side turn.
Dropping into the Early Morning Couloir
It was time to start riding the Early Morning Couloir as I dropped over 10 feet with every turn. Fortunately the snow rode well as I started linking turns down the upper face. Working with the terrain I was now excited as everything felt great. I was finally getting a line on the North Sister that I had wanted to ride all year. Before long I was moving next to the runnels which were only a few inches deep.
Before long the runnels became a foot deep as I was gaining speed. While I was careful to stay away after a chattered heel side turn I found myself stuck in the runnel. The face was steep and I tried rocking the board to get out but I was stuck. It’s hard to say how steep the terrain was but it was no place to climb without crampons safely. Below me the runnel went over the cliff and I was in a bad situation. I decided the best option was to get a bit of speed then hopefully once using my edge I would get out of the runnel.
Sometimes You Win and Sometimes You Lose
I quickly gained speed and once initiating my edge I almost rocked my way out but didn’t. Within a second I went over the cliff and was now in a runnel making my way down the Early Morning Couloir fast. I was fortunate to not hit any rocks and soon found myself at the bottom of the line. I was totally okay but worried about Buell. He had seen me disappear over a cliff so I moved into the lower basin so he could see me.
Instead of riding the Early Morning Couloir he went back to our ascent route and descended back down. He was happy to know that I was okay but it had been a scary situation. As we walked back on the trail we chatted about the situation until arriving back at the Pole Creek Trailhead. While I had felt I was in control during the descent I had rode to close to the gully. It was a mistake I wouldn’t make again over the years. This trip taught me lesson I would never forget and I was very fortunate I didn’t get hurt on the North Sister.