Sjufjellet is one of the more popular ski tours in the Tamokdalen valley with easy access and numerous options for ski descents. Being that we had finally gone through an avalanche cycle and the snowpack under the new snow was stable we decided to head out during a storm. Knowing that only the surface could sluff or slab we decided to attempt climbing via the Southwest Ridge as then we would easily get back to our ascent route and potential lap the upper slopes.
Riding Sjufjellet in Storm Conditions
We had been sitting at our accomditions for a full day before we decided to get out. By now it was snowing heavily and what was ice two days ago had around 20cms of fresh snow on top of it. A few hours before sunset we decided to check out the Southwest ridge to see if we could find a semi safe climbing route and if visibility is bad we could follow our bootpack back down.
Arriving at the Southwest ridge we followed its contours a switchback at a time. Both to our left and right were steep headwalls but as long as we stayed on the low angled slopes we were in a safe zone from avalanches.
Before long we were skinning on a flat bench in the middle of the south face traversing east to find a clean route to bootpack up. Before long we were on the edge of the flats and decided that it was time to climb via bootpacking up to the upper slopes.
Arriving at the summit rocks we chatted for a second about what to do. Asking what time it was Jukkis responded saying it was 9 p.m. Within 30 minutes it would get dark so we decided it was best to ride back down.
Instead of following our ascent route we rode next to our bootpack before riding fall line back to our car in the valley below.
With a forecast calling for partly cloudy sky and our knowledge of the route the day before we came up with a plan. We would climb the same route and once on the summit would wait for a weather window. We focused our attention on the west facing chutes planning to ride to the valley before catching up with our ascent route and climbing again.
Starting the day we were happy to see the occasional sun breaking through the clouds while climbing back to the Southwest ridge of Sjufjellet. It’s hard to tell in the photo below but the flat bench we would be traversing above is the middle rocks on the right in the photo below.
once we made it to the flats above the Southwest ridge we started traversing like the day before. Unlike the previous day we had a bit better visibility and found a cleaner climbing route on the lookers right side of the upper cliff band.
Once on top we transitioned before putting on down coats and waiting for the weather to improve. By now we were on top of the Southern most West chute and below us the line was in flat light conditions. After around 30 minutes there was a small patch of blue skies and once the sun hit the face Jukkis dropped in.
The snow was fresh and kicked up with each turn but was only around 30cms deep. After Jukkis snowboarded to a safe spot I dropped in and found it to be in perfect and stable conditions.
Once in the valley we knew we wanted to go for another lap so we switched over to skinning and got back onto the Southwest ridge. Less then an hour later we back back to cramponing the final face of Sjufjellet while the weather seemed to be deteriorating.
Traversing a bit North we found the entrance to the next main couloir and transitioned. by now the summit was covered in clouds and we could barely see the line below us. For the next 45 minutes we just sat and waited for another weather window to come in.
While the sun didn’t come out we were able to see a bit better when we decided it was our chance to ride down. Once again Jukkis went first leaving a track for me to follow as it was flat light. Once again the snow was amazing with every turn kicking up snow.
This time around we kicked off a small slab up higher and because of that we rode next to the sluff.
As we rode towards the valley there was a split second of sun on the slopes and we could see Háhttagáisi in the distance. After riding down the main area we were back to traversing to our old transition spot and going for yet again another lap.
While climbing for the 3rd time the weather really started moving in. We decided to skin up to the point where we started cramponing and hope that the visibility would improve. Once there we couldn’t see 10 feet in front of us and decided the best move was to turn back in case conditions got worse. Soon enough we were riding down and following the faint lines of our skin track all the way back to the base of the valley.
This was my first time attempting Sjufjellet via this route and in my opinion it is a very nice way to climb it. Yes there is a bit of exposure but not much more then the standard route. Best of all this is a good way if you want to make multiple laps on the South or West facing slopes.
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