The 14 Lakes Traverse was one of those trips that came together after consistently looking at maps. I needed to link together Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass and kept wondering what would be the best route for a snowboarder. Looking at previous routes that had the trip they had taken a low route following the Pacific Crest Trail. While possible, I found this way to be out of the question. If I was taking the energy I wanted to ride as much as possible. In the end this trip came together with the thought of “well if I want to ride this line I need to go there” mindset. In late March 2016 the weather window finally came together and we were on our way for a 4 day trip in Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Heading from Mount Rainier north with section Links up the Alpine Lakes Traverse and the Poets Traverse

Starting the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse From Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass

The trip was a logistical nightmare from the get go being late in winter. Starting at 4 a.m. we were off on a 16 mile snowmobile ride with Boot and his partner in crime, another Jason. Holding on for dear life with visibility as far as our headlamps allowed we sat on the back of the sleds embracing for every bump and creek we had to endure. Every mile we past was a second for celebration and within an hour we arrived at the Hyas Lake Trailhead. By now the sun was starting to rise to the east and it was time to take off the headlamps. We were already an hour into the trip but now it was time for the real adventure to begin.

It wasn’t long before both teams split off from each other. Boot and the other Jason were heading for Mount Daniel while we were heading for Robin Lake. Both teams would be climbing the opposite sides of the valley. It felt a bit weird as they made there way left and we made our way right.

 

Off the Sleds and on to the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse

With our backpacks filled with 4 days of gear we started skinning up the Hyas Lake valley. Beyond us in all directions the mountains rose over 4,000 feet making us feel small below. Our plans were pretty loose as of specific routes but we knew that it was getting time to start climbing. We would just have to chose the proper and easiest spot for a direct ascent up to Robin Lakes. We were now on the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse heading from Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass in Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

 

Within 30 minutes of starting skinning we already ran into our first problem. We were hoping Hyas Lake was frozen but getting there it was all open water. The main section for its outflow on the southern shores was deep enough that it promised for soaking wet boots. Instead of heading directly across to the area we wanted to climb we would have to skirt all the way around the lake shore.

 

After a few seconds of looking at the map and comparing it to the terrain in front of us it was time to climb. We referenced where we were from what seemed like a big creek as well as the mountains on the opposite side of the valley. If we were correct the stream we were climbing was a direct route to Robin Lakes. Compared to other routes it was open forests getting wider with each switchback we made. Hopefully we were now making way from Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass Ski Resort.

Making it into the Upper Robins Lake Area

Before long we were in the high alpine and looking thousands of feet to the valley below. We didn’t know exactly what to expect but the first crux of the trip had gone exceptionally smoothly. For the most part the rest of our route would be weaving through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness landscape. As we made our way towards Robin Lake we couldn’t help but occasionally glance back at Mount Daniel. Both Boot and Jason were up on the mountain and I wondered how there trip was going.

 

After one final long switchback we were making our way to the shores of Robin Lake. It was an area I had been interested in visiting for many years. I had heard it was stunningly beautiful with smooth rocks to the shore and a pleasantly beautiful lake. Arriving at the outflow the whole area was buried in well over 5 feet of snow. We would camp there but there would be no warm rocks to sit on and definitely no swimming.

 

Our day had started at 1 a.m. with a long drive followed by the sled trip so we were tired arriving at the lake shores. Being at such a scenic spot we decided it was time to set up camp on the lakes outflow. This would allow for both a stunning view at sunset and with a carefully dug out hole we be able to get water. With the tent set up we decided to take a nap in the early afternoon. The plan was to get back up an hour before sunset and skin to the summit to watch the light show.

Watching the Sunset From the Summit of Robin Peak

Before long the alarm started going off and it was time to get moving. The sun was setting fast to the west as we raced up the final slopes above Robin Lake excited for what was in store.

 

Arriving on the summit we knew all the pain of the past 24 hours was worth it. It was one of the more scenic spots to watch the sunset. As we looked up valley towards Mount Stuart we had a clean view of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. For those few minutes all the pain of the cold fingers, wet boots and dehydrated meals quickly disappeared.

 

To the north the mountain towards Glacier Peak seemed to roll out in full display. At the time we still had not done the Glacier Peak to Stevens Pass section of the ski traverse from Mount Baker to Mount Rainier. Now we could see the high peaks and the valley floors that stood in the way. While it felt like the area was so close, from previous experience we were well aware that it was so far away.

 

To the west the Puget Sound felt eerily still as the sun dropped under the horizon. The mountains of the Cascades blocked off the light from the cities below like a massive wall. You could tell that the mountain range was nearing its end on the west side as below was just flat lands. Being only 30 miles from civilization we may as well have been at the end of the world.

 

Our First Snowboard Run of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse

Soon enough the last rays of light were being absorbed by the darkness around us. It was time to head back to Robin Lake and make our way back into the warm tent. Fortunately from our vantage point I strapped into my snowboard and started riding down towards the lake. This was the first run of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse and it was a powder run in the dark all the way back to camp.

 

Staring the Second Day of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse From Upper Robins Lake to Mac Peak

We woke up to one of the most scenic camping spots you could ask for in the Cascades. In the distance Mount Daniel and Cathedral Rock seemed close enough that we could throw a rock at them. We had a long day ahead on the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse but it was hard to get moving as it was such a nice morning. If every day started off like this it was going to be a great trip through the Alpine Lake Wilderness.

 

Packing our bags it seemed like the ridges in front of us and Mount Daniel blended together. From our vantage point it seemed like you could keep skinning on flat terrain all the way to the summit above. It was actually a mirage of sort as to access the background terrain you would have to drop 4,000 feet. Our eyes were playing tricks on us in the morning sun.

 

Leaving Robin Lakes For Trico Mountain

After a few minutes it was time to leave Upper Robin Lake and start heading north. It had been a great camping spot that was both scenic and had water but we needed to get moving. According to the topographical map we had a few small cruxes in the day. Long story short that meant we needed time on our side as a minute lost in the sun would be 10 minutes in the darkness.

 

Our first objective of the day was to climb to the summit of Trico Mountain. From there we though we could find a line down to Lake Phoebe as well as a view of our potential route. With the sun still low on the horizon we made our way up, absorbed in the endless beauty of the North Cascades.

 

Arriving on the Summit of Trico Mountain

Once on the summit of Trico Mountain it was time to look for a route down. We needed to head both north and east but there were cornices everywhere. From what little of a view we had earlier I could tell there was a rock face under us. We would find a way down but it definitely wasn’t off the summit proper.

 

While climbing up to the top we had spotted this couloir. Plain as day the route obviously went to the valley bellow. After heading up to the summit of Trico Mountain we retraced our steps. Soon enough my snowboard was on my feet and we were riding down to Lake Pheobe.

 

We were able to ride all the way down to the lake that was buried under feet of snow. So far our route on the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse had gone smooth as we started heading NW. Our plan was to head up and over a small col before descending to the southern base of Mac Peak. It felt great as we made our way through the heart of Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

 

From the pass it was beautiful to look back at the the contours and shadow lines of the mountains. We had traveled quite a ways already and were more than halfway done with the day. The weather was everything we could ask for being both warm and clear. With each step we were getting closer to yet again another scenic camping spot.

 

Climbing to the Summit of Mac Peak and Our 2nd Camp of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse

From the col just northwest of Lake Phobe we descended down to Lake Talus. In front of us to the north Mac Peak rose 1,500 feet all the way to its summit. Putting on our skins we carefully made our way up in some loosely spaced trees before obtaining the summit ridge. Within 30 minutes we had arrived on up top and were preparing to build camp at yet another beautiful and scenic spot.

 

From the summit of Mac Peak we had a perfect view of what was ahead of us and what was behind us. The next hour we scouted out descent options while Jason put up his tent. With both the view and the sky being so perfect I dug a 2 foot deep hole. It would be the perfect spot as it was big enough to sleep in and deep enough to block the wind.

 

Sunset Light Show From the Summit of Mac Peak

As the shadows grew larger we looked back towards our camp the first night. The slopes around Upper Robin Lake were casting long shadows under the ridges and high points. It had been a long day but we were happy with our progress. Hopefully the next day would be as smooth as the past 12 hours.

 

We ate our dinners poured over the maps as the sun started setting over the Cascades. By now we were over half way done with the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse and on yet again another scenic camp spot. Though I had always had an interest on heading out to this peak I was finally camping on top. In every direction there was a different mountain and memory lightening up in the last of the sunlight.

 

Looking to the southeast we could see the edge of the Alpine Lake Wilderness. The tops of peaks like Mount Stuart to Dragontail were in full display. It reminded me of the beauty of the mountains in Icicle Creek. Each summit was an adventure of it’s own just waiting for you to put the effort in to get there.

 

Day Three of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse From Mac Peak to the Pacific Crest Trail

We woke up and directly below us was our first run of the day. It was both obvious and straight foreword that we were going to ride the northeast face of Mac Peak. Packing our bags we looked off to the north wondering how close we would make it to Stevens Pass during the day. It was day 3 and this would be our earliest ski descent of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse.

 

Skinning Through the Lakes of Alpine Lakes Wilderness

After riding down the northeast face of Mac Peak we were able to make it to the shores of Square Lake. We had already rode a few miles in the span of a few minutes and it was time to keep moving north. The lake was huge but fortunately it was completely frozen and allowed us to go directly across. If there was a question of the snow not being thick enough it would have taken hours following the rugged shoreline.

 

From Square Lake we made our way towards Wolverine Lake. It was apparent why Alpine Lakes Wilderness was named what it is. Every corner we turned around there was another lake to go over. Making our way north with one more climb and descent hopefully we would be on the Pacific Crest Trail in the next few hours.

 

From Wolverine Lake we skinned through some burned forest making our way towards a high pass. It was still rather early in the day but the sun was out in full effect. By now south facing slopes had turned to slush as we battled the skin glopping. We would have to work hard for every foot in front of us.

 

Arriving on our Last Alpine Col of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse

Looking back we could see Mac Peak in the distance. We had already traveled quite a long ways through the high alpine of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse. It had been stunningly beautiful and relatively easy so far in the day. While we were happy we knew that the last bit of the trip would be much more challenging.

 

At the high pass we made the decision to summit the peak to the east. With it being so clear we wanted to have a clear view of the route coming up and what we had already done. We knew the next 24 hours would be through lower woods and a steep sidehill being the crux of the 14 Lake Ski Traverse. Any visualization of the route ahead could potentially help us both mentally and physically.

 

Our Last Summit View of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse

Once on the summit we made some food and prepared for what was in front of us. After another hour of being in the alpine we would drop into the dense forests of the Pacific Crest Trail. If the maps were correct and we knew they were we would be sidehilling through steep slush for miles.

 

Looking back at Mac Peak we were happy with our progress. It was amazing how Square Lake absorbed into the valley floor and how the shore lines raised dramatically. Off in the distance we could still see Mount Daniel. It had been a long day and hopefully within 24 hours we would be done with the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse and hanging out at Stevens Pass Ski Resort.

 

In front of us was the North Cascades and a route that we still had to do from Glacier Peak to Highway 2. We had stunningly clear views of Glacier Peak, Tenpeak and the Dakobed Range to the north. It was our last clear view of the trip so we decided to take an extra few minutes to enjoy it.

 

Before long it was time to start snowboarding again. The terrain below us was quite flat so we needed to catch as much speed as possible dropping in. We would need to make it to Trap Lake where we could get onto the Pacific Crest Trail. While there wasn’t much turning it was worth it in the end to shave off a few miles of flat skinning.

 

Making Our Way on the Pacific Crest Trail

Soon enough it was too flat to ride so we put on our skins. According to the topographic map we could climb 100 feet then descent down to Trap Lake. After a quick climb it was time to put the snowboard back together. Now we had made it to the crux of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse and riding down to Trap Lake.

 

Once on the PCT it was just as bad as I thought it would be. Being steep and a consistent sidehill we worked through the nasty slush one avalanche path at a time. In my typical fashion I had skin issues and they were only held on by Voile Straps on the tips and tails. By now we were on a race to beat the sunset. It was our hope to camp on another summit and be within striking distance of Stevens Pass the following morning.

 

Avalanche path after avalanche path the terrain just kept going for miles. We would go from battling dense trees to running through the open swaths as fast as possible. All the time we were watching the sun dropping on the horizon. We didn’t know what specific spot we would camp at but we hoped we would come upon it soon as within an hour it was going to be dark.

 

Arriving at Our Final Camp Spot

We raced the light and finally made it to camp right at sunset. In the end it was 3 miles of sidehilling but we were happy that the crux of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse was over with. The following day we would make our way through flat forests before exiting Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Our hopes were that we would be back at Stevens Pass in the early afternoon with enough time to hitch a ride to the Puget Sound.

 

Day Four of the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse From the PCT to Stevens Pass Ski Resort

The next day was a bit of a blur as we quickly packed our bags and started moving. The flat land was somewhat hard to navigate without big mountains in the distance to reference from. We made good use of our GPS loosely following the Pacific Crest Trail which was buried under 10 feet of snow. Finally we were making our final descent to the groomers of the backside of Stevens Pass Ski Resort. From here on we ran up the groomed slopes deciding to keep it pure. We could have used the lifts but it only would have saved us 20 minutes. Finally we were descending to the ski resort parking lot a little after 2 p.m. We had completed the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse from Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass ski resort in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

 

Next came the real adventure as we would have to hitch hike over 100 miles with our backcountry gear and snowboard boots on. It took almost a hour before we got our first ride all the way to Everett.

 

The Long Adventure on Public Transportation

From Everett we took an Express bus to downtown Seattle laughing at the blank looks we got from people. We had been in the mountains for 4 days and I’m sure that we had looked and possibly smelled like it.

 

 

Once in Seattle it was time for one more bus from the city center. Before long we were walking down the streets of Aurora and I was still in my wet snowboard boots.

 

 

We had finally finished our trip making our way to Ben’s house where he was kind enough to give us a ride. And there was only one way to celebrate, by supporting our local community and buying a glass of ice cold lemonade. It had been a great trip on the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse from Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass ski resort through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

 

In Conclusion

A huge thanks goes to Jason Hummel for being a great partner over the years and producing top notch photography. Please support him by buying a print and/or purchasing his Adventure Journal. Thanks to Boot and Jason for the snowmobile ride and being great ski touring partners as it wouldn’t have been possible without there help. To the random guy who picked us up at Stevens Pass thanks for the ride. King County Metro system for allowing me to get around without a car and thanks always goes to Ben Starkey for the ride back to Kent and being such a great touring partner..

Click here to check out more of our trips from Mount Rainier to Mount Baker

Thank you for reading this trip on the 14 Lakes Ski Traverse from Hyas Lake to Stevens Pass. If you want to see more ski tours within the Snoqualmie Pass Backcountry check out this link.