The Osceola Traverse was a trip I came up with while focusing on topographical maps. I was looking for something that including big descents and minimal sidehilling. Knowing the North side of Rainier had some great lines I decided this was an opportunity to link them together. This trip would have to have the right conditions as there was numerous steep descents. If conditions were questionable and potentially avalanche prone it would be incredibly dangerous.

As time went on we had a small window after a huge rain storm cooled off at the end. This left the area with a bit of new snow but solid snowpack underneath. With the stars aligned it was time to attempt the Osceola Traverse.

A Little Bit About the Route

The Osceola Traverse is a high route linking the Carbon River to the White River in Mount Rainier National Park. It links together the prominent points on the North Side of the mountain through both ascents and descents. Focusing on the high ridges and open ski descents it travels through some of the more scenic areas heading in a Easterly direction. It could be started from Mowich Lake but the original route follows Alki Crest. In total it is 36 Miles and 18,000 feet.

 

Day 1 of the Osceola Traverse from Carbon River to Mowich Lake

It was a rainy day as we arrived at the Carbon River Ranger station. We made our way into the ranger station to get our permit and had a quick chat. By this time I had gotten to know the ranger quite well and he was excited about our idea. He was a bit concerned about the weather but the forecast looked to be clearing up the next day. Once the permit was finished it was time to pack up and get onto the Alki Point Trail.

 

Heading up the Alki Point Trail

We started the climb at 1,700 feet in the old growth forest. Being so low there was no snow it the valley as we started hiking up the trail. As we gained elevation we quickly made it to snow line. It was amazing seeing the snow covered forest yet still being able to follow the summer trail.

 

Soon enough we were blazing our own trail. From the moment we left the trailhead we were totally alone. After arriving on Alki Crest we were blazing a trail through the high mountain ridges. This was an area I wasn’t familiar with but found it easy to navigate. After traversing and descending a few ridges we could see the Tolmie Peak Lookout. From here on out the rest of the Osceola Traverse would be on familiar terrain.

 

The snow had gotten considerably deeper as we broke trail up to the lookout. It was perfect skinning as there was no firm snow underneath us making the final switchbacks up to Tolmie Peak via the North Ridge.

 

Arriving at Tolmie Peak Lookout

Arriving at the Lookout tower we took a few minutes to rest. I was looking forward to the view of Mount Rainier but clouds had blocked it. We were fortunate that it wasn’t snowing anymore and if the forecast was correct the weather was about to clear up.

 

From Tolmie Peak we rode straight down past Eunice Lake to the Mowich Lake Road. Riding though the open spaced trees we found great snow before it was time to start skinning again. The day was getting late as we broke trail racing against the darkness. The day had gone as smooth as we could have hoped for.

 

Our Camp for the Night at Mowich Lake

We arrived at Mowich Lake as darkness filled the skies. The ground was buried under 10 feet of snow as we set up camp. We were soaked from sweat and rain earlier in the day as we methodically cooked our food before getting into our sleeping bags. It was a brutally cold night as the clouds gave way to clear skies. Once going to sleep I dreamed of clear skis and the warmth of basking in the sun. The first day of the Osceola traverse was a success.

 

Day 2 of the Osceola Traverse: From Mowich Lake to Curtis Ridge

We woke surrounded by ice crystals. Our tent provided shelter from the elements, but the cold had its way with every drop of moisture. It was a cruel possess putting on our gear as everything was frozen. We could see the sun lighting up the other side of Mowich Lake but we were still in the shade. We hastily put on our gear and packed our bags before running towards the warmth of the sunlight. Soon we were breaking trail across Mowich Lake and diverting our path just a bit to get into the sunshine.

 

Making our Way up to Knapsack Pass

The first few hours disappear into the entertainment of breaking trail. The snowpack was much deeper than my previous base camping trip in the area. Before long we had arrived at Knapsack Pass and happy to be in the sun for the rest of the day. Looking back the weather had cleared out and we had a sweeping view of the Mowich Lake area and the foothills below.

 

From Knapsack Pass we dropped down into Mist Park. This was the gateway to alpine touring for the next 2 day. The conditions were everything I had hoped for with soft snow being abundant and windless weather. It was going to be a joy breaking trail.

 

Soon enough we made our way up to Mount Pleasant and were looking into Spray Park and the Flett Glacier Headwall. I had been here once before in winter but this time the snowpack was much deeper.

 

Ski Touring up Spray Park

Dropping into Spray Park it was time for the long skin out to the Russell Glacier. Mount Rainier stood out among the backdrop of blue skies as we broke trail towards the Flett Glacier. This was a trip I had done many times before but everything about this trip felt different.

 

The Flett Glacier Headwall was covered in new snow as we made our way up. It would have been an excellent run if we had time but we had to reluctantly pass by it in the best conditions you could imagine.

 

Once making it to the base of the Flett Glacier we decided to take a break. The spot was just too perfect not to with bare rocks to sit on. We had waited for this moment all morning to just relax and bask in the sun. After taking off the boots and eating a snack it was time to get moving again.

 

Skinning up the Flett Glacier

Finally we had reached the first glacier of our trip. The Flett Glacier had always been my go to spot for early season turns but this time it we would skin straight past it.

 

The higher we got up the shoulder the better the snow became. We were fortunate that the previous storm wasn’t that windy leaving a smooth surface. We kept pushing up knowing the higher we made it the less we would have to traverse while riding down.

 

While skinning up the high ridge I kept looking to the east at the terrain between Moraine Park and the 3rd Burroughs. This would be our route the next day and it was about to be our ski descent. Conditions were just perfect and we were excited. Ever minute of skinning meant a few extra powder turns.

 

Time to Transition for our First Big Descent of The Osceola Traverse

Finally we made it to our high point and it was time to transition. The sun was starting to lower and we wanted to make it to camp before dark. Below us was 3000 feet of Northeast facing slopes directly down to the Carbon Glacier. After a few minutes of transitioning it was time to ride our first big line of the Osceola Traverse.

 

Snowboarding down to the Carbon Glacier

The face was the stuff that dreams are made of with blower powder exploding on every turn. The upper Russell Glacier was wide open and seemed to go on forever.

 

The steepness of the slope gradually became steeper the further we went down but the snowpack was stable. Turn after turn we milked it knowing the last section was going to be the steepest.

 

Before long the slope was at the steepest pitch as we made our final turns onto the Carbon Glacier. We made sure to keep our speed as we wanted to traverse as far as we could before skinning. I’d looked at this line for years and was happy to be there.

 

Skinning over to Curtis Ridge

Once on the Carbon Glacier the temperature dropped dramatically. We had made it halfway across and had to transition for our final skin of the day. With it being so cold we transitioned as fast as we could and started making our way over towards Curtis Ridge.

 

Skinning past the serac towers made us feel so small. It was a beautiful spectacle being on one of the biggest glaciers in the lower 48 states. All of the new snow had buried the crevasses under a healthy winter snowpack and we were able to find an easy route across.

 

We arrived at Curtis Ridge at sunset as the alpenglow lit up the surrounding peaks. We decided the best option would be a high camp in order to capitalize upon views but not on the ridge. As the sun set we dropped down a thousand feet and set up camp.

 

Camping just below Curtis Ridge

One by one the stars started coming out as we hung around camp. We had traveled a lot during the day but had made it to where we had planed. Everything was going as good as hoped. During the night we basked in the view of Rainier rising 6000 feet above our camp.

 

Day 3 of the Osceola Traverse: Curtis Ridge to Sunrise

We woke up with the sun wanting to take in the morning alpenglow on Rainier. It was a one in a lifetime camping spot so we wanted to make the most of it. Ahead of us was going to be a long day and the crux of the Osceola Traverse.

If time allowed we hoped to take a run off of Curtis Ridge to the Winthrop Glacier followed by a few laps in the Burroughs.

 

Before long it was time to pack up our bags and start moving. We were in a great mood as we were in the sun this day and took a few funny shots before moving.

 

Ski Touring Back Towards Curtis Ridge

We had to regain the elevation we had lost the night before but it was worth having a semi sheltered area. Our intention was to skin as far as we could up before our descent to the Winthrop Glacier.

 

It was another stunning blue sky day as we made our way up the open slopes. In front of us stood the Willis Wall and Liberty Cap Glacier. The glacier was barely hanging on to the steep face and felt like it could drop any minute.

 

As we wrapped around Curtis Ridge the snow conditions kept switching between powder and semi firm snow. It seemed any spot that was exposed was icy yet anything protected was still amazing powder. With winds coming from the west we knew it was loading our descent route.

 

A switchback at a time we made our way up the slopes getting ready for our next run. We needed to head East while skinning to make sure we didn’t have a long traverse while going down. This trip had two snowboarders so it was all about fall line skiing.

 

Before long we made it to our descent route down the Winthrop Glacier. It had been 3 hours of perfect skinning conditions. We knew the route would be similar to our previous days run and we hoped the snow would be the same conditions.

 

Our Second Big Line of The Osceola Traverse Snowboarding down to the Winthrop Glacier

The first few turns were good but the snow was wind affected. We couldn’t feel ice underneath but it wasn’t as smooth as we hoped. Looking a few hundred meters to the North was a much smoother area so we made our way over there.

 

Once riding down the sheltered area the snow improved dramatically. It was just as good as the day before but this time it was in the sun. Every turn would blow up as we made our way down the 4,000 foot face.

 

The slopes just kept going as we milked our turns. Behind us was a stunning view of Old Desolate and in front of us was a massive ramp of great snow. I couldn’t have asked for better conditions.

 

The slope seemed to go on forever as we made our way towards the Winthrop Glacier. Our plan was to ride down to where the Wonderland trail wraps up to Skyscraper Mountain in the Middle of the photo.

 

Soon enough we were on the Winthrop Glacier and riding by the ice fall.

 

Overwhelmed with a feeling of insignificance in comparison to the icy river we made our way toward the toe of the Winthrop Glacier. There was a nice gully that still held protected snow before it was time to traverse to the other side of the valley. Once again we had scored with snow conditions on the Osceola Traverse.

 

Ski Touring up to the Burroughs

The next part was the crux of our crux. We had hoped we’d find the Wonderland Trail but the idea was quickly abandoned as we blazed our own trail. Skinning up the side of Granite Creek we were able to make it to the basin just North of the Burroughs.

 

We skinned up to the low col between the 2nd and 3rd Burroughs and started making our way to the top off the 2nd. We were getting really close to Sunrise Visitor Center and the exit of our trip.

 

With more than enough time to spare we decided to take a lap off the North side of the 2nd Burroughs. It was a line I had seen numerous times and looked like it would be amazing during the winter. We knew this was our chance.

 

Snowboarding the North Face of the 2nd Burroughs

By now shadows were starting to fall onto the slopes so Jason made his way down first to take shots of us riding. One at a time we dropped off the north side making sure to stay on the high ridge and in the sun.

 

Once making it to the base of the 2nd Burroughs it was time to get going. We still had one run left for the day off the 1st Burroughs East face to keep traversing to a minimum.

 

Wrapping through the upper slopes of Berkley Park we made it up to Frozen Lake before heading up the 1st Burroughs. The sun was setting fast and we hoped we wouldn’t have to use headlamps.

 

We made it to the top of the 1st Burroughs just before sunset and rode towards Sunrise Visitor Center. The day had gone as good as one could hope for and we were able to get 3 lines along the way.

 

Camping at Sunrise Visitor Center

After riding the 1st Burroughs we were able to make it to the summer road. From there it was a 20 minute skin arriving at Sunrise. We decided to set up tent on the side of the building knowing it would be the perfect wind shelter. Quickly we set up camp before eating food and going to bed. The next morning was going to be an early one.

 

Day 4 of the Osceola Traverse: Sunrise Visitor Center to White River

The last morning, Ben and I woke at 4 a.m. There was one final objective that we wanted to tick off. From the summit of Crystal Mountain you have a perfect view of Dege Peak. I knew this was our shot and soon we were at the summit at Sunrise it was an added bonus to the Osceola Traverse.

 

Snowboarding Down to the White River Campground

The weather was quickly deteriorating, so we rode our line and ran back to camp where Jason was awaiting our return. Directly to the South was an uninterrupted slide path would take us directly to the White River Campground. It was intimidating heading over a blind roller knowing we were surrounded by cliff but we found our line.

The weather was quickly deteriorating, so we rode our line and ran back to camp where Jason was awaiting our return. Directly to the South was an uninterrupted slide path would take us directly to the White River where Boot was waiting with sled in hand.

 

This was the one run that was semi firm conditions but it was soft enough to get your edge. One at a time we made our way down the chute before reaching the old growth forest below. Making our way through the trees we wondered if our ride out was waiting. If he wasn’t it was going to be a 16 mile skin down the road.

 

The 16 Mile Exit to Crystal Mountain Snowpark from The Osceola Traverse

Finally we were at the White River Road Boot and John Cocci were waiting for us. They had been there for 30 minutes and we were super excited to see them. They was curious how the trip had went but we saved that discussion for the long drive back to Carbon River for the Car.

The only thing standing between us and the comforts of civilization was the 16 mile sled ride to the Crystal Springs snowpark. Both Ben hitched a ride on the back of the sleds while Jason used a rope to tow behind. Soon we were back at Boots car and loading up the sleds. It was a long four days but we were stoked to have finished the Osceola Traverse

 

Looking back, I feel so fortunate that everything went so well. From the snow conditions to navigation and group dynamics. This was an absolutely amazing trip and I can’t recommend the Osceola Traverse enough. For the most part things were straight forward and best of all there was no sidehilling.

Thank you for reading our trip on the Osceola Traverse. If you want to see more ski tours within Mount Rainier Backcountry check out this link