The Emmons Glacier was one of those runs we had skinned over a handful of times heading out to the Interglacier. While breaking trail we would always chat about how fun the consistent and mellow run would be before breaking trail up to Steamboat Prow. Being the biggest glacier in Mount Rainier National Park it’s a smooth ramp all the way from the summit for over 9000 feet. The lower slopes always seemed to catch snow but the section above Camp Sherman would be wind hammered. After years of passing over the Emmons for other peaks in the White River area it was time to give it a shot.
We arrived at the White River Campground after a 16 mile snowmobile up the road. Being that it was mid February there was a thick snowpack as we started skinning up the Glacier Basin Trail. After a mile of easy skinning it was time to break off and start making our own trail to the Emmons Glacier. The main crux of the trip would be crossing the White River which is more of a creek in the upper slopes. After a bit of scouting we found a tree that had fallen over the stream and delicately made our way to the other side.
After a quick bash through dense trees we arrived onto the shores of Ghost Lake. From here on out it would be a straight albeit long skin up the Emmons. Our plan was to head up as far as the snow was good before turning back and riding as far as we could.
Finally we made our way onto the bottom the of Emmons Glacier. At the moment the sky was clear but we could tell that the weather was changing. Looking above us we could see the wind whipping snow off of Mount Ruth. We wondered what was in store for us.
Switching trail breaking duties we were happy to find that the snow was in great condition. From our vantage point we could see clouds building up on the surrounding peaks but we were in the rain shadow of Mount Rainier. If our predictions were correct this would be the last place to get hit by weather.
A switchback at a time we made it up the smooth ramp. While we could see crevasses in the distance this section is always loaded with snow and straight forward
By now the clouds were pushing in fast and the weather was changing for the worse. We were surrounded by dark clouds but they were above the summit. Fortunately we had clear views and knowing we wouldn’t be riding near crevasses we felt comfortable with a potential descent in a white out.
Making our final push towards Camp Sherman we could see the winds kicking up snow on the upper Emmons Glacier. We were out of the protection of Ruth Mountain and the Interglacier and being battered by the winds.
Arriving at Camp Sherman we could tell the snow above was becoming wind scoured. There was no reason to go any higher so we decided to take a break before our final descent.
Sitting on the Emmons Glacier the winds were raging and the weather was getting worse by the minute. After a few minutes of being exposed we decided to head over to one of the permanent structures to find some protection. While the whole area was thick with a winter snowpack we could see a building sticking out of the snow.
Making our way over to the bathroom we dug out a spot big enough for all of us to transition. We needed to get out as the winds were getting stronger by the minute. We were over 5,000 feet above the White River Campground and excited about the powder that was below us on the Emmons Glacier.
Dropping in we were making our way down the glacier fast. With the open slopes we made our way down without a concern of crevasses and enjoyed powder turn after powder turn.
From our vantage point we could see a cloud moving up the valley but it was relatively low. Knowing that the wind was making said cloud move fast we charged down. There was no question that we were going to ride into the clouds but if we moved fast we would get the upper section with good visibility.
Before long we reached the top of the cloud deck. It was if there was a thin line that we had just past as we looked at the faint blue skies above.
Hoping that it was just a single cloud we decided to sit and wait. The worst thing that could happen was that we would be in the same white out but the best thing was that the area would clear up. For the next 30 minutes we would keep saying “let’s give it 5 more minutes” and pointing towards what seemed to be better weather.
It became obvious that the weather wasn’t going to get better and it was time to move. Fortunately the slopes were both mellow and straight forward. We would have someone ride down for a few hundred feet then the other two had the tracks as reference.
The lower third of the run was riding through a sea of clouds. We couldn’t see 10 feet in front of us until arriving at the Ghost Lake area. We had scored on conditions but failed with the weather.
Wrapping around Ghost Lake we made a quick boot pack up the Emmons Moraine before riding down the shores of the White River. The name of the game was to find a crossing to get onto the other side as we were a bit lower than our approach route. The further we would ride down the less skinning we would have to do to the White River Campground.
Soon enough we found a small tree that had fallen over the water. Carefully we made our way across the thin tree making sure not to fall into the water. We still had a 16 mile sled ride back to Crystal Springs Snowpark and it would have been brutal if we were soaked. Once on the other side of the creek and with a small bootpack we arrived at the White River Campground and our sleds and made our exit.
Finally we had rode the Emmons Glacier instead of the standard up and over to the Interglacier. It was great snow like we had thought it would be but weather made it an interesting situation. Back at the car we laughed and joked around about the day. In all honesty if I had to be stuck in a whiteout on any run in the White River area it would be the Emmons Glacier as it is mellow and straight forward.
Thank you for reading our trip out to the Emmons Glacier in a whiteout and want to see more ski tours within Mount Rainier Backcountry check out this link