The Watson Traverse is a high alpine route from Mount Baker to the the Ski Resort. Starting at Glacier Creek it travels over 17 miles and 10,000 feet before ending at the Heather Meadows Parking lot. The high point of the route is Mount Baker with an ascent of the Coleman Glacier route before descending the Park Glacier. Heading from a west to east direction in follows open alpine slopes and rewards you with picturesque views. The Watson Traverse was pioneered by Dwight Watson and Erick Larson in 1939. If you are interested in more a thorough breakdown I recommend this link.

My Project and the Importance of the Watson Traverse

The Watson Traverse was the final ski traverse to connect Mount Baker to Mount Rainier. Over almost a decade I’d been ticking off the different traverses with usually with one per season. Over the years I had summit Mount Baker from numerous routes as well as skinned out to Coleman Pinnacle. Just one 6,800 foot run and I could finally say that I’d covered the terrain from Mount Rainier to Mount Baker. In total the project would be almost 600 miles of rugged mountains breaking trail throughout. The one line that stood in my way was the Park Glacier Headwall.

A few days prior I had completed the Nooksack Traverse and was waiting hoping for the right weather window. With just 3 days before departing back to Finland finally the weather window came together.

Starting the Watson Traverse from Glacier Creek Road

My friends Boot, Jason, Kinsey and I camped on the Glacier Creek road preparing for the long day ahead. With the alarm going off we started the Watson Traverse at 4a.m. The trip started with a quick snowmobile ride up the 2 miles of forest service road. Sitting on the back of the sled we quickly made our way up to the trailhead.

Immediately we were breaking trail up the winter route navigating though a dark forest. Heading up it was a race to get to the alpine before sunrise and we had less then two hours. The slopes quickly got steep as we made it into open slopes climbing a switchback at a time. With firm snow all of us had a different pace working our way up. Looking back we could see others progress by the illumination of there headlamps. Finally we made it to the high ridge minutes before the sun rose. From here on we wouldn’t skin by a tree for the rest of the Watson Traverse. Our first big step in the trip was now behind us. Hopefully the headlamps wouldn’t be needed anymore.

We basked in the warmth of the morning sun as one by one we were all back together. From the beginning we started early so the trip would be at a leisurely pace. We were already doing good on time but we still had a long distance to cover. If we wanted to finish the Watson Traverse the best strategy was to preserve strength.

Heading up the Coleman Glacier on Mount Baker

As we started skinning into the high country the views started coming out. Behind us we could see the Puget Sound and in front on us was a massive glacier covered Volcano. It was a world of contrast as we made our way back into the shade. It wouldn’t be long until we were in the sun for the rest of the day.

Hiking to the base of the Coleman Demming col we started getting blasted by winds. Though it had been calm on the lower slopes things changed almost immediately. With a low spot facing north and south it was like a wind tunnel. As long as we stayed low we could only hear the wind but once exposed we were at its mercy. Knowing that soon things would be better we dug out a shelter and waited. The last thing we wanted was to battle strong gusts while making our way to the summit of Mount Baker.

After resting for an hour we decided it was time to crampon the last 600 feet. It seemed that the winds were dying down fast and soon they would be gone. For a brief second we had considered retreating on the Watson Traverse but conditions were improving. Soon enough we switched to crampons and it was time to attempt the summit. Heading up we found perfect climbing conditions and the winds had died down dramatically. The snow was firm as we carefully climbed up the wind swept Roman Headwall.

Arriving on the High Point of the Watson Traverse via Mount Baker

Before long we were taking the final steps to the summit of Mount Baker. By now the winds were gone and it turned into the perfect day. From our vantage point we could see from the Twin Sisters Range all the way to the Puget Sound. The first crux of the Watson Traverse was now over with. Soon we would be looking down the Park Glacier Headwall.

Standing on the summit of Mount Baker we waited for our group to gather again. It was time to check out the Park Glacier headwall. We needed to find a route to ride down. From where we were standing everything looked easy. It was deceiving as it looked like a mellow ramp but there were massive bergshrunds below. Having seen the route a few days earlier I knew that we were being tricked. Without being able to reference there width it was just a blind guess. If we wanted to know we were going to have to ride the steep face directly to them. This was made only worse by the high winds leaving the slope firm and potentially unsafe.

Below us was the true crux of the Watson Traverse as we needed to head east. We decided it would be better to head a bit north to a low col. This would allow us to which wrapped around the shrund. It was a much safer options considering the conditions and we needed to get moving. After 10 minutes of walking we were at the low col and looking at a clean route. While there were a few small crevasses it was nothing like above. We had found our ramp onto the Park Glacier and past the crux. It was time to put on our boards for a 5,000 foot descent and numerous miles.

Snowboarding Down the Park Glacier on the Watson Traverse

We dropped in one at a time making our way through the small crevasses. In the end there were only two that we had to jump over. Fortunately they were both small and with a bit of speed we were able to clear them. While conditions were still a bit firm they were at least edgeable. Soon enough we had passed the crux of the Watson Traverse and below us was open glacier. Though we still had a long day there wasn’t anything technical to stop our progress.

At the bottom of the Park Glacier Headwall we regrouped for the descent below. The most stressful part of the traverse was over with but a long route was ahead of us. Taking a few minutes to rested to soaked in the views. From our vantage point we could see the North Cascades from Mount Shuksan to the Picket Range. It would be a mellow and easy traverse all the way to Mount Baker Ski Resort.

Snowboarding down the slope had been effected by wind. Making our way down the Park Glacier we rode from smooth section to smooth section. The moment we hit the wind effected snow our teeth would chatter. With over 6000 feet of descent we would ride until our thighs hurt. It had taken us 5 hours to climb to the summit of Mount Baker yet only 20 minutes to ride down.

Before long we were down into the lower mountains and riding heavy powder conditions. The snow had gone through 5 different thicknesses along the way. From nice corn snow to wind packed pow. Every turn was different until we got to the valley. Now it was just deep slush.

Ski Touring out to Mount Baker Ski Resort

Before long we were at our stopping point and the Park Glacier was behind us. It was time to put on skins and start moving. The crux of the Watson Traverse was now over with. Soon enough we would be in the backcountry of Mount Baker ski resort. For the next few hours our route would go through alpine cols and ridges. All the time the volcano would be looming in the distance to the west. With the snow being warm we would have to be careful with our route. The last thing we wanted was to get caught in a wet slide avalanche. The main descent was over with and now it was a long slog to the east.

Immediately once the skins were on we were breaking trail through deep slush. The temperature difference between the top of Mount Baker and the lower Coleman Pinnacle were dramatic. Looking at our watches we guessed it would take 3 more hours to finish the Watson Traverse. Fortunately there was still over 5 hours of daylight left.

Breaking trail up to the first col we couldn’t help but look back at the Park Glacier. The whole area rose around 4,000 feet above the surrounding peaks. While we were standing in a world of white there was an ice river off to the west. We were looking at the snowiest place in the world.

To our south we could see great skiing as far as the eyes could see. The whole North Cascades were on display all the way to Glacier Peak. In front of us was enough terrain to ski touring for days. Beyond that was a lifetime of options and the high alpine of North Cascades National Park.

Arriving at the Half Way Point Distance Wise of the Watson Traverse

Once on the col we were surrounded by mellow slopes in front of us and steep slopes in the distance. Over millions of years the glaciers had eroded the zone to what we were seeing now. We were traveling on remnant snow fields still thick in a winter snowpack. The whole time we could see where we had come from behind us and what to look forward in front.

Looking to the east we now had a clear view of the Nooksack traverse. My feet were still sore from that trip and now we could see it from a different perspective. We could make out the ramp that I climbed below the summit of Mount Shuksan. Beyond that was the abyss of the Nooksack Cirque. Over 3 days I had traveled up and over Icy Peak and Mount Ruth before exiting to the valley just to the right of Boot. It had been a great trip and the perfect build up to the Watson Traverse.

After a quick break it was time to get moving. Though we were done with the cruxes we were still a ways away from Mount Baker. Looking at the map normally people had just done a long sidehill from here on out. We were snowboarders and hoping that we could break it down into a few descents. This would give our legs a break and not have hours of sidehilling.

Breaking the Traverse Down into Snowboard Runs

Hanging out on the high ridge we decided to switch over to snowboarding. Below us was some northeast facing slopes heading in the direction of our route. We chatted for a while about how far in the valley we should ride. Before long we had transitioned and ready to get our second run of the trip. It seemed like it would be a fun line on mellow rollers all the way to tree line.

Dropping in I was able to snowboard a few miles before stopping. Being semi firm snow it was both smooth and fast as we quickly gained ground. What would have took us an hour to skin was done in minutes. The exchange would be skinning back up to a low col but well worth the effort. Soon enough we were at the top of tree line and next to an open creek. With running water next to us we took the opportunity to get some water. Before long we were back to skinning and making our way to the final ascent.

Finishing off the Watson Traverse at Mount Baker Ski Resort

The next few hours were a blur as we chased the afternoon light. We still had a long day ahead having to drive back to the Glacier Creek trailhead. Finally we made it to the top of the blueberry chutes for our final transition. From here on it was going to be riding back to the resort. Soon enough we had our snowboards on our feet and were ready to finish off the Watson Traverse.

As we dropped in we were riding into patches of light with dark rolls in the afternoon sun. The shadows were long and we were finally back in familiar terrain. Looking around we were making turns while seeing previous ski tours in the Mount Baker area. There was a bit of excitement mixed in with exhaustion from the long day.

We were quickly making our way towards the Heather Meadows Parking Lot. In front of us we could see where the car was parked and it was only 5 minutes away. We had been out from sunrise to near sunset but were finally finishing the Watson Traverse. From the climb up the Coleman Glacier to our final turns down the Mount Baker Backcountry all had gone perfectly.

Finishing off a Ski Traverse from Mount Rainier to Mount Baker

And then it was over with!! A decade of ski traverses had all pulled together into a beautiful puzzle. Each trip was exposing a different part of the crest of the Washington Cascades. Through the trips I had covered three volcanoes and hundreds of peaks. While every trip was exhausting it had been well worth all the effort.

I had become the 3rd person to pull this project off and the first Splitboarder. The first person was Lowell Skoog on skis than Jason Hummel on Telemarks. I hope in the future people will start to love the beauty of ski traverses. It’s a different kind of ski touring than clean ascents and descents. You have to factor in packing, routes, weather, calories and dealing with the isolation. It’s always a weird filling at the half way point of a trip knowing it’s closer to exit the area when going forward.

This trips have taught me so much about myself and the friends that I cherish and am proud to know. Without having Jason Hummel, Ben Starkey, Jake Chartier, Oliver Lazenby, Kinsey Smith, Boot and Jason this wouldn’t have been possible. Thank you for sharing this journey with me and I hope you enjoyed it as much as I have.

Thank you for reading this trip report on the Watson Traverse

If you want to see more ski tours within the Mt. Baker Backcountry area check out this link