The Nooksack Traverse is one of those trips you can’t get wrong. With the route being one long exposed avalanche path it must be done in stable conditions. Going from the White Salmon Glacier on Mount Shuksan to Ruth Mountain it’s surrounded in stunning scenery. Out of all the traverses I’ve done in the Cascades this is with direct ascents and fun descents. Though I had planned on doing the Nooksack Traverse for years I had to wait for the right conditions.

It would have to have soft snow yet be stable as the Nooksack Cirque is a long traverse. With that in mind we would also need 2 days of good weather as most of the route is in alpine. Patience was the game for ticking this traverse off but soon enough the stars aligned. It was time to drive up to Mount Baker Ski Resort and do this tour bordering North Cascades National Park.

Waiting for the Right Weather to Pull of the Nooksack Traverse

I landed in Washington early March and waited for the right conditions for the Nooksack Traverse. Though I was able to do some day trips there wasn’t a weather window available until mid April. Soon enough we had a rain event all the way to the summits followed by a foot of fresh snow. Looking to the long term forecast the following 2 days would be clear skies. Looking at the telemetry data we would find good snow but wouldn’t have to worry deeper slabs. It was the perfect forecast to get into the alpine and pull off something big.

Mount Shuksan is the temple of the North Cascades. With such easy access to a 9,000 foot peak from Mount Baker you couldn’t ask for more. With the North face being 5,500 feet it would be the gateway to the Nooksack Traverse. We would be skinning up the right hand side of the photo below before following the ramp below the summit.

Leaving the Seattle area at midnight we were made our way up to Mount Baker Ski Resort. Soon enough we were at the White Salmon Parking lot and packing our bags in the dark. Both Jake and I threw in enough gear for 2 days of ski touring. Making sure we kept our packs light yet efficient it was time to get moving. We wanted to be climbing Mount Shuksan with the morning sun.

Leaving the White Salmon Parking Lot to do the Nooksack Traverse

It was 4 a.m. as we skinned across the lower groomers of Mount Baker via headlamp. Though we couldn’t see much both of us had skinned the White Salmon Glacier before. Arriving at the base of Chair 8 we transitioned in the dark. Below us was 1,000 feet of old growth forest and our first descent of the Nooksack Traverse. Soon we were making our first turns of the trip with 10 feet of visibility. Riding down we needed to be careful not to get caught in the creek below. As we made our way down we would occasionally stop to listen. In the distance we could hear waterfalls and made sure not to go that way. Cautiously we finally found ourselves going down the correct ramp. We were now in the valley and looking at Mount Shuksan with the first light of the day.

We took the opportunity to grab water from the creek as above we would be relying on snow. Making the most of it we drank as much as our bodies could handle. Beyond us was a clean ramp all the way up Mount Shuksan. While it would be time consuming it would be straightforward.

Heading up White Salmon Creek Towards Mount Shuksan

Before long we were passing the avalanche debris down bottom. Passing block after block of firm snow we were happy to be on smooth ground. In the distance we could see the Northwest Couloir dropping off Mount Shuksan. We had made good time and soon the sun would be coming up. There’s two ways to access the White Salmon glacier via the direct route skinning under the whole northern face or a side ridge of steep trees until the paths connect a thousand feet higher. I’ve always stuck to the trees to mitigate avalanche danger.

Looking back the sun was starting to light up the peaks to the west. It was a beautiful clear sky dry without any wind. From what we could tell we had nailed the weather window. While it was still firm snow low we were hoping conditions would change once reaching the alpine.

There’s two ways to access the White Salmon Glacier. The first way is the direct route skinning under the whole northern face. The second route is a much more protected skin through a tree covered slope. No matter which way we went they would both connect up higher. Not knowing how the conditions were above us we opted to stick to the trees. Cutting in some steep switchbacks we made our way through the loosely spaced trees. While we couldn’t hear any avalanches it wasn’t a reason to let our guard down.

Climbing the White Salmon Glacier and the Nooksack Traverse

Before long we were at the base of the White Salmon Glacier. Almost immediately conditions improved dramatically as we arrived in the alpine. What was ice below was now almost a foot of fresh snow Looking to the west there was a stark contrast between the sun lit peaks and us in the shade. Though normally I prefer being in the sun there was the concern about unstable snow. Breaking trail early gave us an added level on confidence that we wouldn’t have to deal with wet slides from above.

Soon enough we were making our way onto the White Salmon Glacier. Though the beginning was mellow we knew its steepness would ramp up soon. Putting in the skin track we were happy not to find ice underneath. We knew there would soon be some steep sidehilling and conditions were perfect.

The Crux of the White Salmon Glacier

Soon enough we were at the first crux of the Nooksack Traverse. Above us was 500 feet of steep slopes with hidden crevasses. Fortunately the snowpack was deep so they were buried but we needed to keep them in mind. Putting in switchbacks we made sure to keep a safe distance from each other. While we felt the snow was safe there was no reason to take chances. I would make my way across the slope and wait for Jake to come. Then I would place in another traverse making sure he wasn’t below me at anytime. If one of us would have been flushed down the snow it would have been thousands of feet.

Finally we were on the edge of the convex slopes and putting in the final few switchbacks. Above us was a mellow ramp all the way to the top of the White Salmon Glacier. Happy that the crux of our route was still in the shade we keep in eye contact. Before long there was a sigh of relief as Jake was gone above. He had made his way up to the mellow terrain above and it was my turn to follow.

Our First Sun of the Nooksack Traverse

Immediately we were in the first sunlight of the day. It was glorious breaking trail as the snow sparkled in the early day sun. By now it was 8 in the morning and we were more then halfway up the White Salmon Glacier. From our vantage point we could take in the views of Mount Baker ski resort preparing for the day.

Mellow switchback after mellow switchback we broke our way up the clean canvas. Working our way with the shade line we worked with the terrain. As we gained elevation the snow started getting deeper and deeper. Though we had no intention of riding back down it would have been a great line.

Soon enough we made our way to the base of Winnie Slide. By now we had a clear view of Mount Baker to the west as it was time to put the boards on our packs. Above us it was too steep to skin and not worth the extra effort. Taking a few minutes to rest we enjoyed the views and the warm sun. We were still far from where we wanted to be by the end of the day but making great time.

On Top Of Winnie’s Slide and Heading Towards the Hanging Glacier

A step at a time we booted up in knee deep snow. Though it was steep it was perfect conditions for climbing. Switching off trail breaking every 30 steeps we finally crested the top of the White Salmon Glacier. Taking a moment to rest we looked down towards our skin track. By now we could see a few groups making there way up in the distance. Being over 1,000 feet below us we could see the dots following our skin track. It was time to get back to skinning as we still needed to climb the Curtis Glacier.

Similar to the White Salmon the only concerning past of the Curtis Glacier was the first few switchbacks. Traversing onto the glacier we were exposed to a 3,000 foot drop below. One at we would make our way up. Soon enough I had broke in the skin track and it was safe for Jake to follow.

Being a steep and active glacier we made our way up the edge. This would minimize our exposure to potential avalanches. Not only that but knowing that we weren’t on the ice we wouldn’t have to worry about crevasses. We knew soon enough we would be heading up the Hanging Glacier but we could still minimize our time. By now we could see people on top of Winnie Slide and it seemed they were transitioning.

Skinning up the Hanging Glacier on Mount Shuksan

Breaking trail seemed to be endless as we made our way under the summit pyramid. By now the sun was barely hanging over the summit of Mount Shuksan. Breaking in the skin track up the Hanging Glacier we made sure to be a few feet away from each other. Though there were crevasses under our feet we couldn’t see any sign of them. The last thing we wanted was for both of us to put our weight on a snowbridge at the same time.

Once arriving home I was able to get this photo from Adam Ü. He was at the White Salmon Parking lot and had a clear view of us breaking trail. By now it was 9:30 in the morning and we had already covered a bunch of ground. Though it was still clear skies we would soon find out the conditions would change.

Finally we made our way up to the col between the Hanging and Crystal Glaciers. Ahead of us was the real crux of the Nooksack Traverse. We would have to snowboard down the Crystal Glacier before heading west onto the Nooksack Cirque. Hanging out on top a cloud had come in and we were in flat light conditions.

We slowly transitioned hoping that any moment the cloud would burn off. We had a technical area in front of us and needed visibility. From our vantage point we could barely see a mellow slope that just dropped off. Sitting for over an hour we waited trying not to be impatient. It was vital that we took the right route into the Nooksack Cirque.

Our First Big Descent of the Nooksack Traverse

Visibility would come and go as we waited with our boards on our feet. We would see a small glimpse of what was before another cloud came in. We were ready to drop in whenever the right moment came. Finally the clouds lifted for the a second and we were able to descend to the col below.

After a few hundred feet we were standing above the entrance to the Nooksack Cirque. We were now on a blind roller and wondering what was below us. We needed to be cautious because we were about to descend on to an active glacier. There were cracks on the headwall but we couldn’t see them. For the next 10 minutes we carefully skirted to the edge. Below us was wide open slopes but we would have 10 steep turns before we got there. Edging our board over the top lip we were going to have to commit or turn back. Once we were in the basin we were committed to the Nooksack Traverse.

Dropping into the Nooksack Cirque

Before long Jake made his first turns down the Nooksack Headwall. Being within view the whole time I watched him lay in turns. Soon enough he was yelling to stay on the skiers right side. On the left was a massive shrund seemed impassible. Before long my board was over the edge and I was making turns to the flat glacier below. Now the second crux was behind us but we still had a ways to go.

As we made our way down the Nooksack Cirque the clouds came in one again. We were back in flat light conditions and riding on an active glacier. The forecast we had hoped for had fallen apart and we were committed to the Nooksack Traverse. Though we were happy to have gained ground this was the worst place for these conditions.

Before long we rode up to a hundred foot ice cliff and stopped on its edge. We needed to find an alternative route towards Icy Peak. On the right we could see a direct route but seemed dangerous. There was a thin snow bridge over a massive crevasse. To the left we could see a clean route to the lower section of the glacier. It would put us right above the cliffs but we knew it went. We chatted back and forth about what to do for the next 10 minutes. Weather wasn’t improving but it also wasn’t getting worse. After some talking we decided to go with the left route. Though we weren’t sure how the route would be below it seemed less dangerous then the snow bridge we could see.

No Clean Routes in the Nooksack Cirque

We traversed on a steep sidehill crossing ice buldges and rollers the battling flat light. Soon enough we were riding another 1,000 feet to the lower section of the glacier. While transitioning to skinning we could see another group of three dropping in above. Before long they disappear and it became apparent they took the high route. Making our way above the cliffs we were happy to have a clean route. Not only were there no crevasses to deal with but it wasn’t that steep. It wasn’t long until we hit a steep and exposed traverse. The route had become much to dangerous to keep sidehilling.

We had hit a 10 meter long section of 55 degrees above the cliff. Below us was more then 1,000 foot drop to the valley below. We needed to skin up but there were crevasses to deal with. But after that we would be back on the higher route that the other group had gone. We had lost quite a bit of time trying to find the best way across. Soon enough we were on a sketchy snow bridge. Carefully we put in our steps from one side to the other. Though it had been a minute it felt like an hour. We were now back on the trail.

Back on the Nooksack Traverse and Heading Towards Icy Peak

Our route had taken way longer than we had expected. What had gone smooth with an early morning departure had quickly fallen apart. Our alternative route had eaten away valuable hours but finally we were heading towards Icy Peak. Looking back while we skinned we were fortunate that things went as good as they did. We had just got done skinning above a massive cliff. Though we couldn’t tell from above now we had a clear view.

As the last of the sun was setting on the west horizon we made our way to Icy Ridge. By now we could see the group of 3 setting up camp and we decided to do the same. Digging out a 3 foot deep snow pit we set up camp. Going light weight we put a tarp above the pit and weighted it down with our ski gear. Though small it was comfortable and fast to set up.

Cooking dinner we chatted back and forth with the other group. They had heard that we were going to do the Nooksack Traverse and wanted to use our skin track. We talked back and forth about how the different routes were. Though they had to deal with the snow bridge we turned back on they said it wasn’t that bad. Before long it was time to get to bed. We still had one more day and after a run off Icy Peak and Ruth Mountain the traverse would be over with. If all went to plans we would be back at the car within 24 hours.

Day 2 of the Nooksack Traverse

The next morning we made our way out from under the tarp just after sunrise. Slowly getting our gear ready we watched the other group take off. We joked between us that it was there turn to break trail. After an hour of drinking coffee and breakfast it was time to climb Icy Peak. Getting our gear packed up we were once again back to skinning. Following there skin track we were once again gaining distance fast.

Making our way up it was still cloudy but we hoped conditions would improve. By now we had a different vantage point of our skin track the day before. We were glad it had all worked out but from a distance it seemed steep. Being down there the day before we knew it was deceiving. We had been able to go 2/3 the way across but the last section is where it really got steep.

Snowboarding the North Face of Icy Peak

Before long we were at the summit of Icy Peak and transitioning. This was one of the lines I had wanted to do for years. Though I had already been on the summit of Mount Shuksan and Ruth Mountain this was new. As we got our boards together the clouds burned away and we had blue skies. Dropping into the Spillway Glacier we found perfect powder conditions. With wide open slopes we rode fall line for 1,500 feet. The previous group had tracked the main gut but we dropped onto the steep sidewall. Before long we were more then 500 feet below there ski tracks and making the most of the terrain.

We dropped into the Spillway Glacier in perfect powder conditions riding fall line for 1,500 feet before switching to skins.  We really nailed it riding perfect stable north facing slopes to the valley below.

It was time to transition for our final ascent of the Nooksack Traverse. To our north was Ruth Mountain and a skin track already being put to its summit. After a few minutes of looking back at our tracks we were gaining elevation again. Within 20 minutes we were back on the other groups trail and making our way up the south ridge of Ruth Mountain.

Heading up the South Ridge of Ruth Mountain

Once we made it to the low col of Ruth Mountain we had a stunning view of Mount Shuksan. I had seen it from many vantage points but this was unique. Instead of looking at the White Salmon we were now looking at the Price Glacier. It had turned into another perfect day with clear skies and no wind. If the forecasts were correct we would have the rest of the day before the next front came in.

After a quick traverse and loss of elevation we were skinning onto the SW shoulder of Mt. Ruth. Being south facing we enjoying semi firm skinning conditions with no real avalanche activity. Making our way up last few hundred feet to the summit of Mt. Ruth the weather started changing. It was obvious that rain in sooner then expected. Fortunately we just had one final descent and the Nooksack Traverse was over with.

Finally we were taking our last steps to the summit of Ruth Mountain. Though a bit narrow it was nowhere near technical as we made our way north. Heading up it was as scenic as you can get in the North Cascades, Looking off to the east we could see terrain I’d been through in the Picket Range Traverse.

Looking Back at the Nooksack Traverse while Climbing Ruth Mountain

With the final steps we could now see most of the terrain of the Nooksack Traverse. With Icy Peak in the close distance we had a full view of the Nooksack Cirque. We could now see clouds building on the higher summits. Fortunately Ruth Mountain was at a lower elevation and still in the filtered sun. Making our way to the summit we transitioned for our final descent. We still had a ways ahead of us but it wouldn’t matter if it rained.

Snowboarding the North Face of Ruth Mountain

When we dropped into Ruth I came up with a plan. It was my second time on the mountain and I remembered looking at the central gully wanting to ride it one day. Knowing that below me was perfect powder and possibly my last chance to ride it we went for it. Once of the main ridge we were riding bottomless powder. Though the other group had traversed around we were making our way for the main gut.

Riding the upper slopes it was easy to find the centrally gully. Laying in tracks the snow just got better as we made our way down before hitting the debris below. Once in the valley we looked back to see our tracks. We had made the most our of the terrain. It was time to head down the Ruth Valley and make our way to Highway 542.

Heading Down Ruth Creek Towards Highway 542

We downhill skinned Ruth Creek for 3 miles making our way through avalanche debris and numerous creeks. Finally we were at the Ruth Creek Campground and still skinning another mile on the road. Soon enough we were at the end of the snowpack and putting our skis on our packs. Jake pushed forward to try and catch up with the other group. The hope was that he could potentially hitch a ride back to the White Salmon Parking lot. It was during those last two miles that it finally started raining it didn’t matter. The Nooksack Traverse was now over with.

I sat at the base of Highway 542 for less then an hour before Jake arrived. It was time to head back toward the Puget Sound. I still had a bit more then a week left in the Cascades. If the stars aligned I would finish the Last trip from Mount Rainier to Mount Baker. I still had the Watson Traverse to complete and I was running out of time.

The Nooksack Traverse was a gem in the Cascades. I highly recommend it as an overnight trip when the conditions are right and the days are longer. We were fortunate to finish it off in powder conditions. Other than the route shenanigans everything had gone smooth. Thanks to Jake for being a great partner and making his way out on such short notice.

Thank you for reading this trip report on the Nooksack Traverse

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