Mount Shuksan is possibly the most photographed mountain in the North Cascades. It is easy to see why with steep glaciers dropping off the north side. With a summit elevation of 9,131 ft it is the 9th highest peak in Washington state. Being on the border of North Cascades National Park it is 11 miles from the Canadian Border. The term Shuksan is a Lummi tribe term meaning high point. The Nooksack tribe referred to it as Ch’ésqen meaning Golden Eagle. The first recorded ascent of Mount Shuksan was on September 7, 1906 by Asahel Curtis and W. Montelius Price. This is debated though as a letter written to the Mazama Club states it was in 1897 by Joseph Morowits.

This trip was the second day of the Whatcom County Two Step. The previous day we had climbed Mount Baker riding via the Coleman Glacier. Though the forecast had called for clear skies we were dealing with a cloud deck. A peak at a time we were climbing the ten highest peaks in Washington in a single season. If all went well we would only have both Mount Rainier and Mount Adams left. With plans to head to South America for a month and a half I could ride them in July. It was time to go for Mount Shuksan before I left in a week.

Climbing Mount Shuksan via the White Salmon Glacier

Morning came far too soon, waking up at the White Salmon parking lot of Mt. Baker ski resort. From our view, we could see clouds covering Mount Shuksan. It was similar conditions to the day before but to the west we could see clear skies. It was enough motivation to push forward. Our bodies were stiff, and our minds exhausted as we rode down into the White Salmon Valley. Before long we had transitioned to skinning and heading south. Soon we were at the avalanche debris zone. Climbing over 30-feet high rubble we were soon enough at the base of the White Salmon Glacier. We shared the skin track with another group. Looking down a switchback at a time we were soon up at Winnie’s Slide.

There are so many rad lines to be accessed from here. From the Nooksack Traverse to the Northwest Couloir. Though great ski tours they weren’t our focus of the trip. We had come to summit and ride the summit pyramid headwall. Making out way up the Curtis Glacier we were soon heading south. In the distance the cloud deck was similar to the day before. Only Mount Baker and the Park Glacier headwall were in view. Putting in a long traverse we were soon at “Hell’s Highway” onto the Sulphide Glacier.

Heading up the Sulphide Glacier

The summit of Mount Shuksan was now in view. It seemed to be a stone’s throw away but this wasn’t the case. What seemed like 20 minutes finally became an hour as we gained elevation. Pushing to the base of the summit pyramid we needed to switch to bootpacking. The afternoon sun had taken its toll us but it was time for the final pitch. Soon enough we were on the 50-degree slopes. Climbing up we were conscious of potential avalanches trying to stay out of the main gut.

Arriving on the Summit of Mount Shuksan

Before long we were standing on the summit. and transitioning to snowboarding. The weather couldn’t have been better for us with views deep into the Cascades. To the west we could see Mount Baker with a lenticular cloud forming. We were happy to have rode the line the previous day as in contrast the weather seemed worse. Standing on the summit we were finally on the edge and prepared for a steep descent. The summit Pyramid would be the only challenge of the day. Below we would follow our ascent route all the way back to the White Salmon Valley.

Riding down the summit pyramid, we carefully managed our sluffs with every turn. Each time, it was take “two turns then cut a hard right until the slopes mellowed out.” The snow was slush but great for turning on steeps. Behind us Mount Baker and the Watson Traverse Route were the only area out of the clouds. Before long we had made our way off the top of Mount Shuksan. With a sigh of relief it would be easy riding from here on out.

Snowboarding in a Sea of Clouds

Riding down the Sulphide we were both above and below clouds. By now the sun was starting to set and it created dramatic scenery. Though where we were riding was in the sun everywhere else was in the shade. Making turns it was one of the most wild landscaped I had seen in the North Cascades.

Soon enough we were making turns down Hell’s Highway and over to the Curtis Glacier. To the north the clouds seemed like a waterfall dropping into the valley before burning off. Riding down what was now slush we were finally on top of the White Salmon Glacier.

It was now time for our final big descent on Mount Shuksan. 4,000 feet below us was the White Salmon Valley and our final climb. Dropping in we were happy that there were no clouds. While Mount Baker was in the clouds we seemed to be in the rain shadow. Making turns down the steep face soon enough we were in the valley below. It was time to transition and make it back to the car before it got dark.

Skinning Back to Mount Baker Ski Resort and the White Salmon Parking Lot

Skinning through the steep forest we were finally back at the bottom of Chair 8. Following the groomer down I decided to skin since it was so flat. With a few careful ski turns we were at the White Salmon Parking lot. We arrived at the car just before dusk and relieved that the weather had cooperated the past two days.

Mother Nature had really put on a show for us. It had created dramatic scenery on an area I had become very familiar with over the years. With Mount Shuksan ticked off the list the only had two peak to complete my seasonal project. With Goode, Bonanza, Fernow, Stuart Glacier Peak, Little Tahoma, Baker and Shuksan behind us only Rainier and Adams remained.

Stats: 9.5 miles

elevation gain: 7,500 feet

Thank you for reading this trip report on the Mount Shuksan

If you want to see more ski tours within the Highway 542 Corridor area check out this link