The Squak Glacier is located on the southeast slopes of Mount Baker. Being connected to the Easton Glacier it is popular for summer skiing. Being a high glacier it is possible to have good skiing late into August. Starting at 6,000 feet it runs all the way to the summit of Sherman Peak 4,000 feet. There is a lot of snowmobile activity Mid winter. Once the Park Butte trailhead melts out it is primarily used by skiers and climbers. Being connected to the high point of the North Cascades it offers great views and turns.
I spoke with Amar who informed me that he was interested in tackling Baker the next day and asked if I was interested in joining. It was a no brainier as I hadn’t summit Baker yet this season so we started trying to figure out the best route. Our original intention was the Boulder/Park Cleaver headwall but after receiving some beta we found that a massive shrund wrapped around the whole route so we chose to do the Squak Glacier instead.
Climbing up the Scott Paul Trail on Mount Baker
Leaving Seattle around 4 in the morning we started driving north in the dark. By 7 a.m. we were at the Park Butte Trailhead and making our way towards Mount Baker. A switchback at a time we made our way up the trail before arriving at the low col. Soon enough we had a clear view of the Squak Glacier running all the way up to Sherman Peak.
Skinning up the Squak Glacier
Finally we were able to take our skis off of our backpacks and start skinning. Making our way up the Squak Glacier we it was a perfect spring day. With both clear skies and no winds we were sure that the snow would be soft in the early afternoon. It wasn’t long before we were above the summits of the Sisters area and gaining elevation fast.
Making our way through the crevasse fields was straight forward. Since Mount Baker is the snowiest place in the world there were still massive bridges to cross. With the Squak Glacier being a constant and mellow angle we soon were at the Sherman Crater.
Arriving on the Summit of Mount Baker
Finally we were at the base of the Roman Headwall and cramponing up. Being that it was still early in the day conditions were firm. A step at a time we pushed our way up to the summit of Mount Baker. In less then 4 hours we had climbed over 7,000 feet.
We need to wait for the sun to soften the snow for our descent. With down coats on we sat around and watched the clouds come and go. From our vantage point we were above the cloud and watched it like a rolling sea. Below us was the Sherman Glacier and Sherman Peak in the distance.
To the South we could see the Glacier Peak Wilderness area in the distance. From the Scimitar to the Chocolate Glacier Glacier Peak was standing out. To its left we could see Tenpeak Mountain and the Dakobed Range. Though most of the mountains were in the cloud deck there summits were above it.
Skiing Down the Squak Glacier to the Scott Paul Trail
We expected the snow to be soft after waiting for an hour. It was time to drop in as it seemed the clouds were gaining thickness. Dropping onto the Roman Headwall we were happy to find perfect spring corn. Though the terrain was steep it was easily manageable loosely following out bootpack. While there were no big crevasses there was a few small cracks. Soon enough we were on the Squak Glacier and had almost 4,000 feet of wide open turns.
Making our way down the Squak Glacier we were happy that we climbed the route. There was no surprise crevasses along the way and we could follow our skin track. Making our way down we had feared being in the clouds but we were still in the sun. Riding side by side we were loosing elevation fast.
Finally we were past the final crevasse it was nothing but wide open turns. We spotted a big rock near the col and aimed for it. Turn after turn the snow got better the lower we went down. Soon enough we passed the base of the Squak Glacier. Being able to ride a ways below we rode all the way to our col. It was time to put the skis back on the pack and hike down to the car.
Before long we were hiking back down the Scott Paul trail to the car as we made our way down the switchbacks. It had been a 7 hour day and over 5,000 feet of turns. Though most of the lower mountains in the Cascades were melted out the Squak Glacier delivered. With easy access and big descents it is one of the best spring skiing lines around.
Thank you for reading this trip report on Mount Baker via the Squak Glacier
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