The Sulphide Glacier route on Mount Shuksan is one of the most scenic backcountry ski tours in the North Cascades. With a forecast of partly sunny skies and well over 5 feet of recent fresh snow falling throughout the North Cascades, I went touring with Scott McAllister, Scott Stugelmeyer, and Brad Kwasnowski for a attempt at riding Mt. Shuksan. With all the new snowfall and not enough time to stabilize, the potential for big avalanches was, well, big. So, we decided to take the route least likely to slide at the time, which happened to be the low-angled Sulphide Glacier.

Heading Toward the Sulphide Glacier from Shannon Lake

From the start of the trip, we felt fortunate in more ways than one. Besides the picturesque terrain that inspires the words above, we found our approach would be quite mellow– we were able to skin directly from the trailhead at an elevation of around 3,000 feet. Not a hour into the hike we got our first view of the lower flanks of Mount Shuksan covered in rocks, couloirs and open faces. We were only at the bottom third of the mountain, and already the views were breathtaking.

 

Once arriving on Shannon Ridge, we started seeing how truly massive Mount Shuksan is. We were fortunate to follow an old skin track that had seemed to be laid out a few days prior.

 

It seemed the higher we climbed the better the views became, with the Picket Mountains to the east and Mount Baker to the west.  I’m crazy for views, so, to say the least, I was one happy splitboarder.

Before long we were skinning up firm snow, and I became happier still when I tried out my   Mr. Chomps splitboard crampons, a tool I’d gotten recently but hadn’t yet had the chance to fully test. Gaining access to the Sulphide Glacier, the views just got better.

 

As if everything going perfectly so far wasn’t enough of a gift, we found that the route was crevasse-free when we wrapped around steep fluted faces and dark rocks. Again astounded by the views and beauty, I couldn’t help but notice that many of the spines and cliffs that littered the landscape would be worthwhile objectives themselves.

 

Climbing up the Sulphide Glacier

The Sulphide glacier was a mellow climb. We skinned close to the crevasse-free shoulder and quickly gained elevation. Clouds had started heading in from the west, yet the summit cone was still visible merely a thousand feet above us.

 

Finally, as we reached the base of the summit cone, our characteristic good luck began to balance out. Clouds rolled in and quickly engulfed us. Suddenly, visibility was less than 10 feet ahead of us and the outline of an old skin track became more and more elusive. Before long it was snowing hard and our own tracks were quickly getting buried under new snowfall.

Playing it safe and turning back

It was one of those days that quickly reinforces the power of the mountains and the powerlessness of the mountaineer at the mercy of quickly changing weather. Among our party we saw that we’d have to make a decision as to whether or not to continue. Choosing to play it safe and retreat was on what was left of our skin track was a heart wrenching decision for someone summit hungry and pow crazed, but I knew that avoiding loss of navigation and potential crevasse fall should be our ultimate objectives.

 

While we rode down, the clouds quickly gave way to blue sky and the summit of Mount Shuksan was visible once again. While we were disappointed about not summitting we knew that we made the right decision turning around. White out conditions on glaciers can quickly become deadly.

 

We all regrouped 2000 feet lower and decided to hang out, basking in sunshine. Within an hour we rode down the final 4000 feet all the way to the trail head.

 

Two Scott’s and a Brad were fine traveling companions, and the glorious mountain that seduced us with fine-looking weather and glorious views were enough for me on this day. But returning for another summit attempt will always be at the back of my mind.

Thank you for reading this trip on the Sulphide Glacier of Mount Shuksan. If you want to see more ski tours within the the Highway 20 corridor check out this link.