I first set my eyes upon Jack Mountain and the Nohokomeen Glacier Headwall when I was attempting the retreat of the Picket Range. I was attempting to do what took two days of travel back in one long push. Making my way up to Sourdough Ridge I decided to take a water break. I’d gone to use my stove but it wouldn’t work. There was fuel and it had been working earlier, but it just wouldn’t work any more. Quickly I realized I had no access to water, and all I could think was “here I am in the Pickets, alone and without water, good work Kyle”.
With this mindset I looked off to the East and saw the open slopes of Jack Mountain. From my vantage point I could see the Nohokomeen Glacier running down the north face. It looked awesome and I knew before long I wanted to make it out there.
Approaching Jack Mountain via May Creek
From the start I knew this trip was going to be different. We were on a high speed boat making our way up Ross Lake to its eastern shores. Chatting about the plan with the boat driver he thought our idea was crazy. Before long he dropped us off on the shore line of May Creek. Promising he would return 3 days later he was off.
Walking along the shores we could barely see anything above us. We were standing at the base of Jack Mountain between a dense forest and Ross Lake. We had been looking at maps for months but finally walking our trip had come together.
Our plan was to follow the trail for 2 miles south then go directly up. After a bit of studying we would loosely ascend between the creeks on the west side of Jack Mountain. Hopefully within a few hours we would arrive on the ridge then ski down to the Nohokomeen Glacier. We had no clue how long we would be bushwhacking. Making our way through the low forest we had no clue where the snow line would be.
Leaving the Ross Lake East Bank Trail To Gain Jack Mountain Ridge
Soon enough it was time to get off the trail. From our vantage point we could see loosely spaced trees and an opportunity to start climbing. We were fortunate that everything started out mellow before ramping up. Occasionally we would crash through the forest hoping that conditions wouldn’t worsen.
After a few thousand feet of clawing our way up we finally made it onto snow. Postholling on the steep upper forest soon enough we finally made it to our first destination. Standing on the low ridge we were happy that our route had worked out. Surrounding us was the stunning scenery of the North Cascades. Below us and to the wast was Ross Lake and The Picket Range. To our East in plain view was Jack Mountain and it’s impressive Nohokomeen Glacier.
The rest of the afternoon we skinned over to the base of the Nohokomeen Glacier. Being just below the massive blue ice we set up camp. Knowing the following day was our summit push we rested and got our gear ready for an early start.
Day 2 Climbing Jack Mountain via the Nohokomeen Glacier
The alarm woke us up hours before sunrise. Unlike most trips this would start steep before arriving on the mellow Nohokomeen Glacier. From the start we were happy to be on crampons climbing in firm conditions. Heading up via headlamp the route was straight forward. Slowly the darkness turned to light and before long we had made our way onto the upper slopes. It was time to switch to skinning. As we gained elevation the Ross Lake and the North Cascades we in full view.
Almost immediately we had an up close view of the headwall. The transition from glacier to rock was dramatic. There was steep fluting all over the cirque. The shadows of the early morning sun added to the atmosphere. While I expected it to be a wild area I had no clue the terrain was so unique.
Looking up at the Nohokomeen Headwall we could see a route through the rocks. While the area was steep we wouldn’t have to deal with fluting. Being north facing it was still in the shade so we weren’t sure how the snow would be. The plans were coming together quicker then we could imagine. By now we could see the summit rocks of Jack Mountain.
Climbing the Nohokomeen Glacier Headwall
We decided to take a break and let the snow soften before making our way up the steep headwall. What we first feared would be too soft now we feared would be too firm. An hour later it was time to get moving up the headwall. Putting on our crampons it was time for the crux of Jack Mountain.
What we feared would be ice turned out to be powder. Not only was it great for climbing but it would also make for good riding. Jason was snapping photos while both Hannah and I were having a blast climbing the steep face. I took care of the lower slope, then Hannah took over for the final pitch. Before long we were taking the last steps to the summit ridge.
Arriving on the Summit Ridge of Jack Mountain
The mountains of the North Cascades were on full display by now. Walking on the narrow summit ridge there were big drops to both sides. For so many years I’d glanced at Jack Mountain from high among other peaks and there I finally was. Taking in the views I could see numerous other peaks we had rode. Directly to the southwest was Snowfield Peak and the Isolation Traverse. To the further south we could barely see the summits of Buckner, Goode and Mount Logan.
Directly in front of us to the south we had an unobstructed view of Ruby Mountain. This was one of those tours I never got around to doing. The wide open north facing slopes looked amazing with a few swaths to choose from. Being the end of Highway 20 during the winter I can see why people love the area.
Arriving on the Summit of Jack Mountain
Before long we were resting on the summit of Jack Mountain. To the west we had a clear view of the Picket Range. Behind that we could barely make out the summits of Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker. Sitting around we soaked in the views and looked at our route below. It had been a great climb up the Nohokomeen Glacier. Finally we had checked off yet another 9,000 foot peak in Washington State.
It wasn’t long before we decided it was time to get off the summit. The only thing that stood between us and our campsite was 4,000 vertical feet of fall line riding. We were well aware that the slopes were going to be edgeable since we climbed them. One by one we carefully made our way back down the knife ridge. Soon enough we were back at our boot pack and putting our gear on our feet for the descent.
Snowboarding Down the Nohokomeen Glacier Headwall
Finally it was time for the main event. Putting my snowboard on I collected my breath and traversed onto the face. While it felt steep climbing it seemed even steeper looking down. We were fortunate to have fresh snow on the line but as always the first turns were intimidating.
It was time to let gravity take over as I made my first toe side turn. With the steepness of the Nohokomeen headwall I was quickly committed. With ice axe in hand we were linking turns down the upper face and loosing elevation fast.
At the bottom of the Nohokomeen Headwall we joined up once again and celebrated. I had longed to ride the line but worried about when would be the right time in the season . In the end we were right with an early May descent. It was both a mixture of longer days and a more stable snowpack. With huge grins we got on our skis and Boards and started making our way back to camp.
By now the stress was over with as below us was mellow glacier. Opening our turns up we made our way directly for camp. Riding down the Nohokomeen Glacier we made our way past blue ice. While it wasn’t powder anymore it was both smooth and fast corn all the way to our tents.
A Sunset Run From Camp
We lazed around in the sun for the better part of the afternoon looking around Jack Mountain. Around an hour before sunset both Hummel and I decided to head out to watch the sunset. Skinning up towards the tow of the Nohokomeen Glacier we watched the last of the light drop to the west. The northern area of North Cascades National Park were on full display.
We transitioned as the slopes basked in a soft pink alpenglow. We had made short work of about 2,000 feet and happy with our decision.Soon we would be descending directly back to camp for our final night. Looking towards the Picket Range and decided that one day I would soon have to give the traverse a second try.
It was time to start riding as soon it would be getting dark. Quickly we put on our gear and started making turns in the sunset alpenglow. Before long we were back at camp and making dinner. It had been the perfect day climbing to the summit of Jack Mountain and getting two laps of the Nohokomeen Glacier.
Day 3 Exiting the Nohokomeen Glacier Towards Ross Lake
Our one and only goal for the day was to make it back to the lake’s shoreline by 6:00p.m. From the shores of May Creek our high speed boat departure would soon take us down Ross Lake. Slowly packing our gear up we retraced our steps back up to the ridge line. Looking towards the Nohokomeen Glacier we could still see our ski tracks.
We decided to ride as far as snow would allow looking west towards Ross Lake. Since the trail was below no matter how we descended we would hit it. Dropping in we could see our boat pickup spot 4,500 feet below.
Soon enough the snow was gone and it was time to start hiking. Loosely following our trail we made our way through dense vegetation. The next two hours were a blur as our skis occasionally hit trees. Soon enough we were back on the trail and making our final steps to May Creek Campground.
Arriving at the May Creek Campground
Finally we made it back to the pick up point hours ahead of time and celebrated with numerous beers. It was a great ending to a rad trip that was definitely one of my highlights of the 2012 season. All that stood in the way of my goal was Mount Logan and after that I would tick off all the 9,000 foot peaks in Washington.
Riding back on the high speed boat it was a unique experience. Though we had been on the Lady of the Lake on our way to Holden Village this was much different. Looking back we finally could see our route up to Jack Mountain. Fortunately the season had gone exceptionally smooth and this trip fell together perfectly. Though there was little info on the area we had finally ticked off a tour we had wanted to do for so long.
Thank you for reading this trip report on Jack Mountain via the Nohokomeen Glacier Headwall
If you want to see more ski tours within the the Highway 20 corridor check out this link.