Mount Pleasant is the gateway to the Spray Park area on the North side of Mount Rainier. If you ski tour over Knapsack Pass you have to go over the peaks ridge before heading into the Spray Park basin. While it is not the biggest Peak in the park the view is one of the best with a clear shot of the Flett Glacier Headwall and the North Face of Mount Rainier. Over the years it has become one of my favorite spots for camping in both summer and winter. This time around Ben and I made Mount Pleasant our basecamp for a summit descent of the Flett Glacier Headwall in late winter.
With it being the tail end of winter and a sunny forecast during a drought season Ben and I made our way up the Mowich Lake Road gate. Arriving at the parking lot we still had a 5 mile hike ahead of us. Packing our gear on our backpacks we made plans to camp up at Mount Pleasant. It would be a long day but we had planned for it arriving early in the morning for our overnight trip.
It had been a long time since it had last snowed and you could tell by the scenery. Walking up the road we kept our skis on the packs as it was faster than skinning.
Making our way up the road it would be about 2 miles before we decided to start skinning. With the snow being firm we made good time up to Mowich Lake in under two hours. We made our way to the outflow to take advantage of the open stream drinking as much as we could before pushing over Knapsack Pass.
With the snowpack being questionable on the lake we wrapped around the shores before making it into the basin below Knapsack Pass. It was a bit challenging as we went from snowpack to snowpack. Fortunately we were able to loosely follow the summer trail before breaking trail in the alpine.
Finally we had a view of the alpine and we were blown away by how little snow was in the area. Usually this whole place had a 10 foot deep snowpack but this year is was less than half of that.
Skinning up to the pass is usually straight foreword but this year we had to stay on the thick strips of snow. While we were happy to see the area would be rideable for our exit we would have to be cautious.
Finally we were making our final switchbacks up to Knapsack Pass. This was going to be the crux of the day as it would take longer to head back to Mowich Lake then to head to Mount Pleasant.
Soon we were standing on top of Knapsack Pass and making our first transition of the day. From our vantage point we could look east towards the Moraine Park area and like this zone there was little snow to be found. It seemed that all the South facing slopes were dry but our plans were to go for the Flett Glacier Headwall. Normally this is a place you go for your first turns of the season but this year late February might as well been November.
Looking back towards the Mowich Lake area we had covered quite a bit of ground. A few years earlier we had skinned across the ridge in the distance doing the Osceola Traverse to Sunrise but this year we could have hiked it.
It was time for our first run as we dropped into Mist Park. Our plan was to ride as south as possible as we would be climbing the treed ridge in the distance. Taking our first turns of the trip we were happy to see that the upper slopes of Spray Park had a healthy snowpack.
We rode as far as we could before being stopped by boulders. We had been able to make it almost half way to Mount Pleasant taking turns between rocks. Fortunately it was powder snow and not ice though it wasn’t deep but it was a great sign of things to come.
Once we were done laughing about how ridiculous the conditions were for winter it was time to skin up Mount Pleasant. We worked our way up with the shade line to stay in the warm sun. In the distance we could see our route the next day past the Flett Glacier and up to Observation Peak.
Looking down into Mist Park it had every condition that you could think of. Fortunately it was pretty obvious where the icy spots were between the powder.
Before long we were at the top of Mount Pleasant and had our first unobstructed view of the upper mountain. Unlike below we couldn’t see rocks anywhere other than the wind swept ridges. Our route for the next day was to drop into the forest before heading up the Flett Glacier and wrapping around to Observation Peak. Once there we would drop the Flett Glacier Headwall and ride down as far as we could.
Once on the summit of Pleasant peak we unpacked our camping gear and sat around for a while. This trip was going to be a mixture of views and snowboarding. From our camping spot at least we had succeed with the view.
To the Northwest we had an unobstructed view of the Puget Sound 6,000 feet below. It was the perfect vantage point for both sunsets and sunrises as it gets light in both situations.
With there still being some time before the sunset we decided to go for a lap on the northeast side of Mount Pleasant. Since we had skinned up it we knew it had good snow. As Ben took his first turn off the ridge it was confirmed that it was powder.
With it being a short lap Ben rode down into the mellower slopes of Mist Park before stopping. While the snow wasn’t deep it was still good and as an added bonus we could see the mountains of the North Cascades.
After Ben was in a good spot I dropped in making my turns around the rocks. We would ride the eastern gully down as far as the snow would allow going an additional thousand feet before having to skin back up.
Happy with our run we made our way back up the gully putting our skin track straight up. By now the temperature was dropping as the sun was slowly making its way towards the horizon.
Knowing that it was still sunny on Mount Pleasant we put our heads down and followed our skin track from earlier. Looking at the surrounding terrain we knew that if we bailed on the Flett Glacier Headwall we could at least fun some fun turns above Mist Park.
Back at our camping spot we sat back and enjoyed the show in front of us. The light was amazing in all directions but especially on Mount Rainier.
To the west the sun was starting to make its way under the horizion. Soon we would be watching the real light.
Soon enough Mount Rainier was basking in the last light of the day. The whole Spray Park area was a bright red from Echo Mountain to Mowich Glacier Ridge.
The next morning we would wake up before sunrise and watch the light show as we skinned up Spray Park. From what we could tell the Flett Glacier Headwall looked to be in perfect powder conditions. It was a similar aspect to the run we had just had.
Watching the last light of the day we boiled water and ate our dehydrated meals. It had been a long day but after what we were watching the trip was already a success.
Once it got dark it was time to get some sleeping. Being that it was a windless night we set up our sleeping pads and slept under the sky. Off in the distance we could see the lights of Tacoma and the greater Puget Sound.
We woke up to the sound of Ben’s alarm and immediately got moving. The first and main priority was getting coffee into our system as we boiled water. Our plan was to do the run before hiking back to the car so we needed sunlight.
To the west we could see the first sign of light as we packed under a nearly full moon. We were on a race against the sun as we wanted to watch the alpenglow from Spray Park.
With our gear packed the night before we wouldn’t have to get everything together in the dark. After putting away our sleeping bags and stashing them in a safe spot it was time to get moving.
We rode down the south face as Mount Pleasant before the sun crested the horizon. Riding in a southeast direction the goal was to cut down our approach. Fortunately it was open forest so the terrain was easy to navigate without much light.
We made our way down to Spray Park as the sun started lighting up the Willis Wall on Mount Rainier. Unlike the north face the south slopes were much firmer but it helped with getting some distance.
As we made our way up the edge of Spray Park we were happy to be in the morning sun. Behind us Mother Mountain was now in the sun and our time with its warmth would be brief. Looking towards Spray Park we were about ready to be in the shade for another hour.
We skinned directly up the main gully below the Flett Glacier Headwall for a while so that we could get a feel for the snow. From what we could tell it seemed like the whole face would be powder. The problem was that we were still quite a ways away and knew not to get too excited.
After a while we cut a head turn east and made our way over to the Flett Glacier. From this route we would be able to soak in some views as well as have a much easier route up Observation Peak.
We decided to take a quick detour over to Echo peak where we would have our lunch. sitting on the summit rocks we took in the views of Old Desolate to the East. Like many other mountains the south face was stripped bare.
After 30 minutes it was time to head for our objective of the day. We would climb up the mellow ramp to the backside of Observation Peak before dropping into the Flett Glacier Headwall.
With the terrain being a bit steeper we decided to put our boards on our packs and hike the last bit. The higher we got the better the views got. Soon we were looking down the Russell Glacier and out to Moraine Park. In the distance we had a clear view of the North Cascades.
After about an hour of hiking we were on the summit of Observation Peak. From our vantage point we could see in ever direction as far as the eyes would allow. It was a perfect day for views as we could see Mount Baker far in the distance.
Looking directly below us we had a new perspective of the Flett Glacier and Echo Mountain. We had been on the summit just an hour earlier. It felt funny looking into this area as it was my go to spot for early season turns and here we were in Winter. It was that type of season.
To the north we could see our camping spot on Mount Pleasant and our whole route. The snowy basin on the far right side is the Knapsack Pass area. Our Car was at the end of the ridge on the left side of the photo. We had a long way to go before the end of the day.
To the west we were looking down on the Mowich Glacier. This is an area I have always been interested in touring around but never got to it. While people are exploring all over the Cascades I have never heard of anyone touring these lower slopes.
To the south was the Ptarmigan Ridge route up Mount Rainier all the way to the top. While doing the Osceola Traverse for 4 days we rode off the sunny ridge all the way to the Carbon Glacier.
After soaking in the sun and the views it was time to ride. We strapped into our boards and started taking turns down the Flett Glacier Headwall. What we had hoped to be powder was boiler plate ice. We had gotten to excited and decided it would be a smart idea to ride from a bit lower on the ridge.
Dropping in a bit lower it was wind packed powder being able to ride without hesitation. It was a quick Plan B but it had worked out in the end.
Plan B was just a variation of Plan A as it was just a short step lower then the main face. We would ride down as far as possible before skinning back to Mount Pleasant which is the ridge in the photo below.
There was no snow blowing up with every turn as it was wind effected but it was still soft and fun. Looking back the Flett Glacier Headwall was in the shade and we were pretty sure it would have been a nasty descent.
Once riding into the main gully the snow improved dramatically, Finally we had found some good snow and we had a lot of it in front of us. The terrain was about to be really low angle so there would be no stopping.
I straight lined the lower section of Spray park to ride as far as possible. The gully was just steep enough to keep us moving but not enough to warrant a turn. Milking the snow would be the difference between a mile skin and a two mile skin.
Before long we were at the base of Mount Pleasant before skinning back to our camp. it had already been a long distance and we were only half way. The plan was to retrace our steps from the day before back to the car. But hopefully we would be able to ride a bit of the way to save time.
With our gear in our packs we rode down the north bowl of Mount Pleasant again before skinning towards Knapsack Pass. By this time I was pretty tired and couldn’t be bothered with taking my skis off to hike through the boulders.
Back on Knapsack Pass we transitioned to snowboarding with the goal of riding down to Mowich Lake. Soon it was time to drop in making our way down and being cautious of rocks.
We were able to ride through all of the alpine section before reaching the forests below.
Unfortunately we weren’t so lucky as we made our way into the forest. We put our boards on our packs and bashed through the brush before finding the summer trail. We were now through the crux and on the shores of Mowich Lake.
As we made it back to the Mowich Lake Road it was starting to get dark but still easy to see. We were on a race against the darkness as we pushed down the slopes towards the car 4 miles below.
Finally we were back at the car just as sun dropped under the horizon. It had been a long day but it was worth it for the sunset alone not to mention the turns. We made our way back to the city in the dark and arrived in Seattle late. It was a great trip working with the snowpack and we had found powder here and there. Just not on the line we were hoping for.
Thank you for reading this trip where we went camping on Mount Pleasant. If you want to see more ski tours within Mount Rainier Backcountry check out this link.
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