Both the Fuhrer Finger and the Success Glacier Couloir are some of the biggest lines in Mount Rainier National Park. Located on the south side of the mountain they are some of the more aesthetic lines from the Summit Crater. With both being steep they and semi exposed it is best to focus on this lines when it is the spring corn season. During the mid winter powder snow is rare on the upper mountain and if it is there these are massive avalanche paths. With the first week of May calling for perfect climbing weather I made my way for a solo descent of the Fuhrer Finger only to return the next day for the Success Glacier Couloir.

Heading up to Camp Muir to Ride the Fuhrer Finger

The adventure started with a post I put on the Turns All Year website. I was looking to carpool up to Paradise and was wondering if anyone was heading up there. Within the hour I was contacted by Keith who was heading up the following day and asked if I would like to join him. After explaining that I was planning and doing an up and over trip of the Fuhrer Finger we made plans to skin up the Muir Snowfield together. With confirmation that my trip was coming together I packed my backpack and prepared for an early morning departure.

A Night at Camp Muir Preparing to Ride the Fuhrer Finger

The next day we arrived at the Paradise Visitor Center and after getting my solo permit we were skinning towards Camp Muir. That afternoon we skinned up and chatted for hours about life and our love for the mountains before he parted down the Muir Snowfield. For the rest of the afternoon I chatted with people ski touring and enjoyed the surrounding views.

Hiking up to Beehive Rock I had a clear view of the eastern Cascades and many different areas I had rode in the previous seasons. Before long it was time to go to bed as I would have an early morning the following day. I would be climbing up the Ingraham Glacier before descending the Fuhrer Finger.

Day 2 Climbing Ingraham Direct and Snowboarding the Fuhrer Finger

The next morning I woke up at 6 a.m. and started moving with the morning sun. It was a beautiful and windless day I followed the boot pack up the Ingraham Glacier. Occasionally I would run into groups heading down the mountain wondering why I was heading up with a snowboard. Looking around I joked “because I hate down climbing”.

Resting on the Summit and Waiting for the Fuhrer Finger to Soften Up

I arrived on the summit crater at 9 a.m. which was a bit faster than I had planned. I would be dropping into the Wilson glacier at 12:30 so I had a few hours to wait. For the next 3 and a half hours I sat on a rock and looked down into the Mountains of the Southern Cascades

Being that I had been on the summit proper numerous times before I had little interest in walking to the true summit. The previous year before riding the Fuhrer Thumb there was an incident where someone was walking across and collapsed into one of the steam caves. Since I was solo I didn’t want to find myself in a similar situation.

Taking in the Scenery on the Summit of Mount Rainier

The top of the Wilson Glacier looked wind swept but that was to be expected on the summit of the highest peak in the Cascades. Being so early in the morning I knew I had to be patient as I didn’t want to ride the Fuhrer Finger in ice conditions.

With it still being early in the day the light was strong from the east. This made for stunning views of the Southern Washington Volcanoes. Looking to the Southwest I could see the Crater rim and destruction zone of Mount Saint Helens.

To the southeast I was cold see the northwest ridge on Mount Adams. It was a line I never got the opportunity to ride but had always been interested in.

It was such a nice day that I was hanging around in a T shirt. The weather made it feel like summer conditions as there was no wind and warm temperatures. It was crazy to think that I was on the Summit of Mount Rainier in May.

Riding Down the Fuhrer Finger

After around 3 hours of waiting I felt it was time to start riding. From the summit crater the slopes rolled over and the upper Wilson Glacier was a bit of a challenge to spot. I walked down a few steps to confirm my line as I didn’t want to accidentally start heading down the wrong route. Soon enough I confirmed I was at the right spot and made my first turns towards the Fuhrer Finger.

Going solo I made fast progress down the Wilson glacier which was a tad bit firm up high. I wanted the line to be good from top to bottom. With 11,000 feet between me and the Nisqually Bridge I sacrificed some turns on the top for nice corn down low. The lower I rode the better the snow became and we I arrived at the Fuhrer Finger it was in perfect conditions. Riding top to bottom I made my way down to the lower Wilson Glacier before stopping to take a shot of my line.

Heading Down to the Nisqually Bridge After Riding the Fuhrer Finger

The next 15 minutes was a total blast as I rode perfect corn down the Nisqually Glacier to the Nisqually bridge. Walking back up to the road there was numerous people snapping photos of Mount Rainier. Here was this random person they just watched snowboard down in front of them. People were confused and asked where I had come from. After explaining that I had rode the Fuhrer Finger it confirmed there beliefs that I was crazy. Within 5 minutes of putting my thumb out I was back on the road heading home.

Trip 2 and an Attempt Climbing the Success Glacier Couloir

While I was getting a ride back to Seattle I had received a text from Hannah asking how the conditions were. Confirming that the snow conditions were really good we decided to head back the following day. Before making it back to my doorstep we had plans to head for the Success Glacier Couloir the following morning.

The next day we were driving back to the south side of Mount Rainier National Park. We parked at the Comet Falls parking lot and started hiking up the summer tail with our skis on our packs. Soon enough we made our way out of the old growth forest and were in the alpine of Van Trump Park.

Setting up Camp in Proximity of the Success Glacier Couloir

Once near the top of Van Trump Park we started traversing towards the Success Glacier Couloir. We wanted to be close to the area as we would be attempting the line early in the next morning. Once finding a nice and scenic flat spot we set up camp I took in the views of the surround mountains.

Sitting around camp we watched the sun slowly fade over the Southern Cascades. Being on the South face of Mount Rainier we found ourselves in the shade earlier that most of the surrounding peaks.

Before long we were taking in the last light of the day. It was a stunning sunset as Mount Adams became bright red. After taking in the show it was time to get to sleep as we had a long day ahead. The plan was to start climbing before the sun rose over the horizon and get the Success Glacier Couloir in great corn conditions.

An Early Morning Climbing the Success Glacier Couloir

The next morning we were moving before sunrise racing the early morning lite. We wanted to climb the line in firm conditions then ski in soft conditions. After an hour long traverse we made our way to the base of the Success Glacier Couloir. It was still in the shade it and we were happy because the firm conditions would be perfect for cramponing.

The line was steep and consistent as we worked our way up the Success Glacier Couloir. We would have to keep climbing as there was no spots to take a break. Soon enough we found a small spot on the ridge and made our way over. From there we could sit for a few minutes and take in the view of the Kautz Glacier while melting some water.

By know the Success Glacier Couloir was in the sun and warming up fast. The snow looked smooth and we were excited to ride it when the time was right. It was a consistent pitch for around 3,000 feet before mellowing out on the slopes below.

Arriving at the Kautz Headwall

After a few hours of climbing we finally arrived at the top of the Success Glacier Couloir. From here on out we would be traversing on the exposed Kautz Headwall. Below us we had a clear view of the Nisqually River running past Longmire and into the greater Puget Sound.

Making our way up the Kautz Headwall we traversed rock bands and took in the view of the drop below us. Our climb was a bit slower than we planned as the day was hot and the snow was heating up fast. We picked up the pace to make it over to the last traverse before the snow would start shedding off the mountain.

When we made it to the final traverse snow was starting to fall of the surrounding rocks. There was a 20 foot long traverse that had a 4000 foot drop down the Kautz Headwall. We felt the snow was getting to soft and too dangerous to climb the last few hundred feet. We were a bit disappointed but we decided to turn back knowing we made the right choice as we put on our ski gear.

Skiing the Success Glacier Couloir

After a few minutes of transitioning we were making our first turns on the Kautz Headwall. Although we had feared the snow being too soft for the climb it was great skiing. Making our way through the rock bands and following our boot pack we were finally on the traverse back to the Success Glacier Couloir.

Once on top of the Success Glacier Couloir we took a quick break our descent. From our vantage point we could see down into the western side of the park. It was an area I had done a bunch of hiking in but never had the chance to ride in. Before long we were ready for our descent down 3,000 foot of perfectly timed corn.

Dropping into the Success Glacier Couloir

With a bootpack to follow we knew we were making our way into the line as the terrain seemed to roll over. A turn at a time we made our way towards the ramp into the Success Glacier Couloir.

Finally we were in our line and taking turns in the soft snow being able to open up knowing we didn’t have massive exposure below. It felt good to finally be riding the Success Glacier Couloir as I had wanted to ride it for years.

Soon we were in the gut of the couloir and putting tracks down the line. While climbing the line had felt steep and while riding down it had confirmed my beliefs.

Skiing the Lower Section of the Success Glacier Couloir

Riding down the lower section of the Success Glacier Couloir we were finally able to open up and rip big turns. The snow on the apron was in perfect conditions and smooth. Once riding to the bottom of the line we would have a long traverse to camp so we kept our speed up.

We were able to traversed most of the way back to camp before I had to switch to skinning. While transitioning I kept looking back up at the Kautz Headwall. By now it was shedding snow every few seconds. Though we didn’t make it to the summit we had made the right choice and rode a solid line.

Breaking Down Camp and Heading Back to Comet Falls

Back at camp we had a clear view of the traverse we were making. We had made it to the last rock band in the gut of the photo. It would have been a fatal drop if something had gone wrong. Sometimes you have to turn back if conditions aren’t perfect and this was one of those times. The problem with mixing Ski Mountaineering and climbing both sports are looking for the complete opposite snow conditions.

With our camp packed up it was time to ride back down Van Trump Park. With a long traverse we were underneath the Turtle and making our final turns down to the Summer Trail. Back at the car we packed our gear for the final ride home.

I was fortunate to ride two great lines on the south side of Mount Rainier. A week of sunshine can be rare in the Cascades and I had made the most of it linking up the Fuhrer Finger and the Success Glacier Couloir.

Thank you for reading this trip on the Fuhrer Finger and Success Glacier Couloir. If you want to see more ski tours within Mount Rainier Backcountry check out this link.