The Monte Cristo Range is a secluded area within the North Cascades of Washington state. While driving by the place going to Stevens Pass of to Highway 20 the area was of little attention. Though a few years earlier Scott McAlister and I had made our way out to Kyes Peak I never returned. Being earlier March we were looking through maps and trying to come up with a unique ski tour. Chatting with Scott he had checked out a route that he wanted to explore further. Soon enough we had come up with a plan to head to the area for a 3 day trip.
It was an early morning as Jason Hummel and I drove up to Goldbar. Soon we were at Scott McAlisters house and going over topographical Maps. Earlier in the week he had gone up Troublesome Creek and found a southern approach to Twin Lakes. Soon enough we had a plan and it was time to get moving.
We drove up to the road washout on Index Galena Road and parked our car. Soon there was a gear explosion as Scott, Forrest, Jason and I started packing. We would need three days worth of winter camping gear as it was going to be cold. Stuffing our packs with dehydrated Food and 0 degree sleeping bags we were off.
The road has been closed for years as it is in a state of despair but was perfect for skinning. Being buried under a winter snowpack we were able to skin all the way to Troublesome Creek. Occasionally we would past by old houses that seemed abandoned. Here we were so close to Seattle yet this area was untouched by time.
Once we were on the shores of Troublesome Creek it was time to head north into the Monte Cristo Range. For the next 5 hours we would skin through the thickly forested valley. A tree at a time we would crawl through happy to find stretches of open forest. Soon enough we were near the head of the valley and it was time to climb. Looking at a rapidly moving creek falling of some west slopes our map confirmed it was time to climb. We were out the outflow of Twin Lakes and all that was in our way was 2000 feet of vert. Clawing through the vegetation and working for every step finally we made it to the shore.
It had been a long day and by now the sun had dropped under the western horizon. Knowing any minute we would be using headlamps we searched for a spot to camp. By now we were all exhausted and waiting for the second to unload our gear. We were happy to be in the Monte Cristo Range and below the summit of Columbia Mountain.
Finally we found the perfect spot and set up camp. By now the ski was covered in stars and the temperature was dropping rapidly. Hanging around camp we took photos and starting cooking dinner. Before long we saw a headlamp crossing the lake and heading towards camp. It was our friend Ben who followed our skin track after getting off work. Now we were a group of 5 and ready to do some ski touring in the Monte Cristo Range.
We woke up to a clear and cold sky as we focused on the morning coffee. While our camping spot was the perfect location it was going to be in the shade for hours. The first hour was a battle of putting on frozen gear and trying to heat up. Soon enough it was time to go as it was a race to get into the sun and enjoy its heat.
Making our way towards Columbia Peak we had a clear view of its west face. From our view we could see two spots moving around up high. Quickly we realized that a group of two were heading for its summit. This was our original plan so we would have to do something else. We were surprised the it is rare for a group to be in the Monte Cristo Range. Here we were with the rare weekend where there were two groups out there.
Chatting back and forth we decided to do a circumnavigation around Columbia Peak instead. It would allow us to see the mountains of the Monte Cristo Range as well as have some fun skiing. Soon enough we were climbing the north ridge of Twin Lakes and making our way towards the Seventy Six Glacier.
Finally we were climbing the steep west ridge of Columbia Peak. To the South the terrain dropped off to Twin Lakes. Though the snow was firm it was perfect for climbing with our crampons. Every few minutes we would switch of breaking trail. The plan was to keep climbing until we could easily head over to the Seventy six Basin.
Before long we had climbed high enough to easily move to the north. By now we were right below the summit rocks of Columbia Peak. Soon we were switching from climbing to traversing. Hopefully soon enough the terrain would mellow out and give our feet a rest.
We made our way up onto the Seventy Six Glacier with Wilmans Peaks in the distance. Finally we were in the high country of the Monte Cristo Range and gaining elevation with every step. In the distance we could see that there was a low col. According to the map this would bring us towards the Columbia Glacier. Before long we would be able to see if it was climbable.
Arriving at the base of the col we were happy to see that it went. Now revitalized with energy it was time to see what ski lines the ridge had to offer. We had accidentally started a traverse of Columbia Peak but up to this point it was going smooth.
Once on the ridge we were looking down at the Columbia Glacier. From our perspective we could see that there was snow plastered to the rocks below us. Other then the first hundred feet the line went over a blind roller. We couldn’t see much but we knew it was a fast drop all the way down to the Glacier. By now we were debating over if we should ride it or not.
Scott decided he was going to check it out but if it went he wasn’t coming back. Strapping in it was a nervous minute as he started loosing elevation.
A few seconds later he dropped in and after a few turns he was gone. The next few minutes felt like hours as we had no clue if everything was going okay. All of us were staring into the valley and wondering why we hadn’t seen him yet.
Soon enough we saw a lone snowboarder riding into the sunlight of the valley below. He had found a way through and was now safe at the bottom so obviously the line went. We could tell the line was steep and didn’t have enough room for all of us. Two riders would be fine but not five as it wasn’t the type of terrain you wanted to ride on ice. With Forrest being the guest it was all his. Ben, Jason and I would find another line and meet up with them on the Columbia Glacier.
A few minutes later we spotted a line that was a bit more open. Quickly we transitioned and it was time to go snowboarding in the Monte Cristo Range. Ben dropped in first and within a minute he had made his way down to Scott and Forrest 2000 feet below.
With Scott, Forrest and Ben now on the Columbia Glacier it was time for Jason and I to go. Dropping in I rode next to the shade line enjoying steep turns on the wind plastered powder. After a thousand feet the sloped mellowed out dramatically. Before long it was mellow turns down to our group and know we there just north of Bianca Lake.
Once we were back together as a crew the day was getting late and it was a race back to camp before sunset. We had one final col to climb before riding down towards camp. By now the sun was starting to set as we climbed over the south ridge of Columbia Peak.
Making our way down to the Twin Lakes we were able to arrive minutes before it got dark. It had been a long and great day ski touring around Columbia Peak. As we sat and camp we chatted about Scott and Forrest’s run off the steep headwall. What we couldn’t see was a steep ramp that went to the open slopes below. Before long it was time to go to bed as we were exiting Troublesome Creek the next day.
We woke on and waited for the sun to hit camp. Though the exit would be long we had more then enough time to get out. Enjoying our last morning in the Monte Cristo Range we took in the views. It had been a wild trip and more then worth returning to. Finally it was time to ride into the valley and start clawing our way through the forest. After a few hours we were back to the road and heading towards our cars.
It was a wild trip and great to explore a new area. While the approach was definitely character building it was totally possible. We had a great time doing a ski touring circumnavigation of Columbia Peak. It was fun to take a new approach compared to the summer trail.
Thank you for reading this trip in the Monte Cristo Range. If you want to see more ski tours within the Stevens Pass Backcountry check out this link.