The Coleman Deming is possibly the most popular route to the summit of Mount Baker. Climbing up the Heliotrope Ridge Trail it’s over 7,000 feet and 5.5 miles. Starting on the Coleman Glacier it heads in a southeast direction. Soon enough the final steps are up the Deming Glacier via the Roman Headwall. The route is usually done in two days but is easily possible in a long day. Though it is a non technical route it does pass by crevasses so it does require caution. The first summit of this route and the volcano was done in 1868 by Edmund Thomas Coleman on his third attempt. This days the Coleman Deming Route has become the standard climbing route. It is both popular with skiers and hikers throughout the year.

My goal for the season was to climb all the Washington Volcanoes in a single season. By now we had already climbed Mount Adams, Mount Rainier and Mount Saint Helens. The next climb on the list way Mount Baker before heading for Glacier Peak. This would be my first attempt at the summit and we decided to head for the Coleman Deming Route.

Heading up the Heliotrope Ridge Trail Towards Mount Baker

With a 3 day weather window Scott, Dan and I were driving up Glacier Creek Road. Soon enough we were at the Heliotrope Ridge Parking lot and packing our bags. We decided to turn do a two day trip starting early in the day. Soon we were making our way up the trail and looking forward to get some turns in before our summit day.

Walking up the trail we were surprised how fast we got into the alpine. Before long we had a clear view of the Coleman Glacier in the distance. Looking to the east we could see ice fall tumbling into the valley below. Being early May the area quickly was buried with over 10 feet of snow.

We dropped our camping gear off at the base of Heliotrope Ridge and started climbing. Knowing the summit was 10,781 feet we felt it would be good to acclimatize. Since we were sking we felt the best way to do so was do some skiing. Hiking up we now had a clear view of the Coleman Deming Route. We could see that it was straightforward but there would be some crevasses to pass by. Being spring we were happy that it was corn snow conditions. It would allow us to see potential hidden cracks as well as have some great corn snow.

Soon enough we were on the top of Heliotrope Ridge and taking in the views. Looking to the south we were standing above the Thunder Glacier. With it being a blue sky day we could see south all the way to Glacier Peak. We were standing on the most glaciated peak in the lower 48.

A Warm Up Run on Heliotrope Ridge Before Climbing the Coleman Deming Route

Before long it was time to ride back down to camp. Since there was no wind we could tell it would be perfect corn. Looking at our tent in the distance we would be able to make turns to our tent. While I had been up here before it had been early season powder. Now it was spring and it felt like a completely different world. Instead of down coats we were about to descend in shirts.

Dropping in it was wide open slopes from top to bottom. By now it was early in the afternoon and perfect corn conditions. Being smooth and fast we were able to open our turns up. It was a great way to warm up for our summit day.

Riding down we could see our tent in the distance. Riding down 2,000 feet back to camp we had a clear view of the North Cascades. Turn after turn we made our way down in minutes what had taken us hours to climb. Before long we were back at camp and celebrating a great warm up day.

Back at camp we kept looking up the Coleman Deming Route. We would have a long day ahead of us and it was our first time to the Summit. Being both nervous and excited we prepared for the climb. Soon enough the sun was setting over the Puget Sound. We made our way to the tent and set our alarm. We wanted to be up and getting ready before sunrise.

Day 2 and Time to Climb Mount Baker via the Coleman Deming Route

Soon enough the alarm was going off and it was time to get moving. The early morning light was now lighting up the Coleman Headwall. Before long we were roped up and making our way up the Coleman Glacier. We weren’t sure how long it would take but we wanted to have more then enough time.

Following the Coleman Glacier Route we were soon under the north side of Colfax Peak. We had already gained 3,000 feet yet there was 2,600 feet to go. Walking under the north face we found the area was scoured by a recent avalanche. There were blocks the size of cars as we walked through the debris.Heading up and over the blocks we were soon on its eastern edge.

Taking a water break Scott mentioned that he wasn’t feeling well. It was the end of the line for him and he would ski back to camp. Now it was Dan and I heading up the Coleman Deming Route. Though we were a bit exhausted we could now see the Roman Headwall above us.

Climbing up the Roman Headwall

Soon enough Scott and I arrived on the Coleman Deming Col. By now he was feeling so good and decided not to head up the final 2,000 feet. Being at a safe spot I left him with some food and made the final push up the Roman Headwall. Being clear weather, no winds and more importantly no crevasses it was safe to go solo. Soon enough I was making my way towards the summit of Mount Baker with the Twin Sisters in the background.

Less then a hour later I was walking across the summit plateau. Being flat the terrain seemed to go on forever. Being my first time on top of Mount Baker I was surprised by how wide it was. It seemed like I was walking the distance of a football field before reaching the peak. Looking to the south I now had a clear view of Sherman Peak. Looking into the crater I could see the occasional plume of steam. It was a reminded that I was walking on an active volcano.

Looking to the east I had a clear view of the Watson Traverse. From the Park Glacier to the Picket Range all the North Cascades were out. In the far distance I could barely see the top few hundred feet of Jack Mountain. Above all surround peaks was Mount Shuksan. From the Sulphide Glacier on the south to the White Salmon Glacier it was a world of white.

Skiing the Coleman Deming Route on Mount Baker

Soon enough it was time to snowboard back down the Coleman Deming Route. Almost 6,000 feet below was our camp and endless turns along the way. Before long my board was on my feet. Making turns next to bootpack I found perfect corn turns down the Roman Headwall. Arriving at the Coleman Deming Col Dan was ready to get going. He had been waiting for 2 hours and now was finally feeling better. After a quick chat it was time to get moving. Working with the terrain we were sound under the north face of Colfax Peak.

The rest of the route would be low angle glacier all the way back to camp. Being early in the afternoon the snow was both soft and fast. Fortunately the only thing we would have to deal with was the avalanche debris. Below us the crevasses were easily avoidable and a relaxed run.

Our last crux was a simple climb over the avalanche debris on Colfax Peak. Though easy it stopped us dead in our tracks. Bootpacking over the 10 foot tall wall we were soon on the other side. Putting our gear back on our feet we would soon be back and camp in around 5 minutes.

Hiking Back Down Heliotrope Ridge and Back to the Car

Making our way down to Heliotrope Ridge we were soon back at camp. Chatting with Scott he was now feeling better and ready to hike down. It was still early in the afternoon so we took an hour packing up. Finally we were taking our last turns to the end of the snowpack and hiking down the summer trail. Though not all of us had climbed the Coleman Deming Route it had been a fun trip. With great company and weather we had made the most out of the two days. With another volcano of the list I was close to finishing my seasonal goal. When the next weather window came it was time to head to Glacier Peak.

Thank you for reading this trip report on the Coleman Deming Route of Mount Baker

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